Need a little help on Laser Manual Focusing. I’ve read https://support.snapmaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360041254874-Snapmaker-2-0-Laser-V1-0-0> and need a little additional guidance on the instruction “adjust the height of the laser module until the laser beam is focused down to the smallest spot.” Am I missing a better explanation somewhere else on the SM Support pages?
SM2 A350 with 1.6mW laser (not the newer one); current focal height is 31.0mm (but I do have it on a raised platform if that makes a difference).
I’m kinda in the same boat as @andyfaby in “A Hack/Trick to “always” get the Laser Focus RIGHT” post. Autofocus (from touchpad) does work, to an extent, but between the lower power of the 1.6 mW laser and my ‘desire’ to laser cut 3-4 mm hardwoods, I’m running into obstacles. 2 mm cherry seems to be about my limit for cutting, and that is pretty charred.
@vvsahakian suggests that “Manual focusing works much better than automatic focusing.” But that post is older and not very complete.
With the OD6+ safety goggles, I really can’t see the dot. Old guy with reading glasses are part of the problem. Is the focusing beam really a laser hazard or is it low enough energy not to be a concern?
Even without the goggles, the dot is quickly hidden under the lens hood. @sdj544 says “The correct focus distance should put the lens hood from 3-5mm away from the surface.” How do you see the dot sufficient to determine “smallest spot” under that hood?
Is the SM specification for the 1.6 mW “will cut 3.5 mm with 6 passes” in part due to the lens hood being 3-5 mm from the surface?
I’ve read @chazr33gtr “1600mW Laser Manual Focus - how to”; good info; thanks.
@brent113 comment on thinnest line in “Comments on Quick Start Guide and Laser User Manual” is helpful; thanks.
If there is already a better forum discussion, please let me know, I haven’t found it.
You can unscrew the end of the shroud to gain a better view. If you know your focal height, you can just take your focal height, add your material thickness, and jog to that Z height. (i.e. with a focal height of 31mm and say 5mm plywood, you’d get 36mm so jog Z to there). You can then adjust a little from there if needbe. Also removing the shroud gives you a bit more movement room for drop-downs.
As far as charring, faster speed with more passes so the wood has less chance to heat up and char.
The focusing beam should be fine without the goggles. I end up doing that most of the time. But I don’t do it for very long, and careful that I’m not doing it when the material is reflective.
For running boundaries it’s just too hard to see with goggles on.
For focusing (which you tend to have to stare at longer) you can use the camera on your cellphone to help see it.
I have had the laser turn on accidentally a couple times (my user error) and have been very glad I was wearing goggles.
-S
Snapmaker should have really included a red dot pointer for positioning your work, like many other laser manufactures do. Would make life a lot easier.
