I found a video guide for the original, and someone talking about having done it for the Snapmaker 2, but I’m struggling to figure out how to do it safely

Yes, make sure it’s all the way up. If it slips even a little the distance from your calibration sensor won’t be correct and you’ll put your nozzle through the PEI sheet. Make sure you calibrate after you replace it.

[image] Mads0100: Yes, make sure it’s all the way up. If it slips even a little the distance from your calibration sensor won’t be correct and you’ll put your nozzle through the PEI sheet. Well, not exactly. The hot end height is adjustable and should be ~ 1mm higher than the nozzle. I’ve re…

Lol. No. I’m right. You put the hot end to the top.

Should be nozzle all the way up. Then check and adjust the sensor if needed. There should still be plenty of clearance for the cooling vent. -S

I’ve advanced the nozzle 0.5 mm down from hard up against the stop. Autoleveling still works (nozzle doesn’t touch down on the bed) and now there’s extra clearance so the shroud doesn’t hit in cases where there’s a bit of curl.

I’d like to know how you figured out it’s a .5mm :joy: You could adjust your sensor if that’s your goal.

My goal is to have a greater distance between the XY plane of the nozzle tip, and the XY plane of the extruder mechanism. Adjusting the bed level sensor down won’t do that though. It’ll just mean I have to move the head further down when I set the Z offset. Z offset is set manually after auto bed l…

@hardy did you slightly loosen the nozzle? Or did you bring it down using the grub screw? .5mm is incredibly difficult to measure, and the hotend is supposed to be mounted all the way in. You’ll actually potentially run into cooling issues if the nozzle is going past the vent…

Seemed pretty easy with a vernier caliber. But then again, TLAR is just as effective. There’s no need for it to be exactly 0.5. Loosening the nozzle is exceedingly unwise as you will just get filament flowing down the threads. Yes. Grub screw.

[image] hardy: Yes. Grub screw. That’s what I thought. But isn’t that leaving a gap between the heatbreak and the heat block?

Is there a guide to replacing the hotend for the S2?

Snapmaker 2.0 (3-in-1)

sdj544 February 4, 2022, 6:32pm 36

Search is your friend:

-S

Topic		Replies	Views
Replacing nozzle Snapmaker 2.0 (3-in-1)	35	9114	September 4, 2022
Can’t Remove Hot End Snapmaker 2.0 (3-in-1)	5	765	March 5, 2021
Bad hot end? Snapmaker 2 Snapmaker 2.0 (3-in-1)	22	918	January 18, 2021
Change the nozzle? Snapmaker 2.0 (3-in-1)	31	3692	April 5, 2021
Unable to replace hot end Snapmaker 2.0 (3-in-1)	3	233	February 24, 2024

Is there a guide to replacing the hotend for the S2?

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