@snapmaker - it would be a very nice feature to have heated bed with connector and a separate cable. It’s a mater of time until the cable melts/breaks even without the bed accidentally hitting a wall 
The connection is not very flexible and the bed moves.
Just a suggestion.
Anyhow.
Anybody managed to desolder and solder the cable?
I’m having trouble melting the solder (my soldering station is not something very special though)
I managed to snap the cable, solder it (somehow) back, I am quite sure I have the cables right, but it started showing negative numbers
Then I cleaned the board, it seems to work now, however the cable is painfully difficult to strip and the spacing is quite tight and I mean, what kind of solder did they use?
Anybody did this already with success?
Thanks
I cant comment on the soldering work but many people have designed and printed strain relief attachments for the heated bed cable such as the one below:
Get a cheap high powered soldering iron like this: Amazon.com
(updated link to include the brass cleaner because they are amazing - if you’ve never used a brass cleaner and are still using wet sponges you need to switch - no tip cooldown when you clean, and they are mildly abrasive so it’s much easier to remove burnt flux or plastic from the tip.
There’s also 80W ones if you want to really burn things.
Or carefully preheat with a hot air gun.
Standard rosin core solder, I prefer leaded. I use Kester 60/40, and I prefer the thin stuff for better control over how much is added: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJNQ/. For this particular job the .062" stuff might be faster.
If you’re having trouble with bridging because of the spacing use copious amounts of flux: Amazon.com
If you add too much make sure you have a solder wick or solder sucker to remove excess.
Haven’t had to do it myself yet. But usually you first want to add some new solder to it when desoldering. That helps tremendously with the heat transfer.
And some desoldering wick is convenient as well as already mentioned
Finally found some spare time and resoldered the cable back after buying a better soldering iron at last. (cheapo but works - KSGER T12 from banggood)
As I mentioned in another forum topic related to the heated bed cabling, those power delivering wires are substantially thicker than those for the thermocouple
Funny enough, after I attached the bed back and did the calibration, I started a test print.
Not sure if it’s related, but I never got this neat, almost OCD-like first layer.
Cheap local white PLA, maybe I just did the calibration right, or the broken cable wasn’t delivering enough power for the whole bed to heat up properly.
I’m quite curious what will I find after 8hrs.
