Let me put some context. I want to use my 350 to print Carbon Reinforced PETG, in order to do that I have to be able to reach around 260 Degrees, a bit more if I have to use a hardened steel nozzle to manage the wear. As you may know, PTFE starts to degrade and generate toxic fumes around 240-260 d…

I have changed my brass nozzle for a steel nozzle, the auto-calibration always plunges into the bed. I have adjusted the proximity sensor to be 1mm ‘above’ the nozzle tip as instructed in another post about stopping the nozzle from gouging the heat bed. Is there a trick to getting the auto level w…

Actually it doesn’t matter of which material the nozzle is made but it should be a MK8 Type. Snapmaker also postet the procedure of how to adjust the sensor height correctly: [image] How to adjust the probe/proximity sensor in the 3D printing module? Phenomenon The printing module hits or…

on further investigation I have discovered that my proximity sensor is broken, worth checking if you have bed gouging. I wouldn’t of noticed the ‘red LED’ on the back was/wasn’t working (or even existed) without reading these forums.

Just bought both heatbreak and nozzle from Ali, thinking about titanium one - do you think this one - Tough Titanium Heatbreak for Creality Machines and Tough Dual Hotend - Kraken Compatible - TH3D Studio LLC - will work too? I am learning and experimenting with my first 3D printer so sorry for mayb…

@pegak , this heatbreak is 7 mm diameter on the heat sink side and the Snapmaker 2 one is 6 mm there. The one I listed is a direct replacement as is also 6 mm. If you are willing to do a hard mod on the heatbreak and drill the 7 mm hole (N ensure is really fine and smooth ) then you will be able to …

I think you will be interested in this topic. Please share your opinions there. Thank you in advance. [image] Poll on nozzle diameter in Snapmaker 2.0 3D Printing Module Official Articles The diameter of the nozzle significantly affects the pressure drop along the liquefi…

Thank you very much, I am still a newbie. I ordered what you recommend, but also tried to look for titanium one. But now I am experimenting with a laser, so updates will come later!

[image] Franky: As you may know, PTFE starts to degrade and generate toxic fumes around 240-260 degrees. In the Snapmaker 2, we have a PTFE lined hotend, that means that there is a PTFE tube that gets up to the nozzle, thus I needed an all-metal hotend to avoid the problems of PTFE degradation. …

Using a silicone tube would be kind of difficult: first of all , to remove the ptfe from inside the hotend heatbreak can be quite a challenge without damaging it; second, silicone is not specially sliding as PTFE is and can easily trap the filament. If no one else in he 3D printing community has don…

Ok, good point. Btw. you can actually buy throats without the PTFE tube inside. Did you do some actual printing tests with the all-metal hotend? How do they compare side by side? Edit: Or you can try some high temperature PTFE tubes . They degrade at 280°C but that should be enough to start with PC…

FYI: Snapmaker 2 All-Metal Hotend Simple Mod

Snapmaker 2.0 (3-in-1)

Edwin April 8, 2021, 8:40am 26

I think you will be interested in this topic. Please share your opinions there. Thank you in advance.

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FYI: Snapmaker 2 All-Metal Hotend Simple Mod

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