I just ordered some new hotends for my SM2. I was a bit surprised when I just opened them.
The heatbreak changed quite a bit. I know that the old ones are incompatible with the new print head but that made me thinking. The old design wasn’t bad, because it prevented the whole hotend to turn when I fastened the nozzle while having it installed. I really wonder why they gave up this design.
So what is the best practice now to fasten the nozzle at 250°C without damaging the silicone bag of the heatblock?
New design is cheaper to manufacture. Fewer processes.
That’s dangerously close to the Teflon decomposition temperature, be careful.
Use soft jaw pliers or a rag in some channel locks on the silicone, and good luck getting a bite on the heartbreak, more pliers I guess.
That would be my best guess as well. Too bad…
Thank you for that hint. I know, but decomposition doesn’t takes place right away and I don’t use that temperature for more than a few minutes. Also, the PTFE tube is inside the heatbreak which should be a bit cooler anyway. Too bad that the Capricorn tubes don’t fit in and their liners are only rated 250°C instead of 300°C and have no tapered cut.
That doesn’t sounds very promising… 
But thank you for the hints. Hopefully it is tight enough for now.
I am also not really thrilled with the heatbreak not having flats…
vice grips help but then you gotta worry about crushing it a bit.
i do think that bottoming it out allows for you to crank the nozzle down pretty good at least.
