Flexible Filament adapter is needed


#21

Hi, I got some great results using Simplify3D. Here are my settings:

Retraction distance: 4,00mm
Retraction vertical lift: 0,20mm
Retraction Speed: 60,0 mm/s
Coasting Distance: 0,30mm
Wipe Distance: 2,00mm
Extrusion Multipler: 1,0
Layer Height: 0,2mm
Top/bottom solid layers: 3
Outline/perimeters: 3
First Layer height: 100%
First Layer width: 125%
First layer speed (IMPORTANT): 20%
Default printing speed (IMPORTANT): 30mm/s
Outline speed: 30%
X/Y Axis movement speed: 90mm/s
Z axis movement speed 30,0mm/s
Extruder temperature: 250°C for the first layer, 240°C for the others
Heated bed temperature: 50°C for the first layer and 40°C for the other one

Result (sorry, the forum system allowed me to post just one image because I’m a new user):

Best regards!


#22

What medium? Is that TPU? Is that even something flexible?


#23

Yes, it’s TPU! @moonglum, here is a short video of the printed part.

https://d3roxcpq5tricw.cloudfront.net/original/2X/d/d4bb06c469fe76401b277c636bf0406531582791.mp4


#24

Did you use jjestings’s adapter for your printing?


#25

Hi, @ysixer. I didn’t used jjestings’s adapter. But, while trying to load the filament, I had to open the module to check if everything was ok. I noticed that it is important to keep the tip of the filament as straight as possible, so it can be easily loaded.


#26

Very thanks. I will try it.


#27

That is fantastic! Well done!

Did you need to reverse hang the spool of filament? Or do any other contrivances to get it to feed properly?


#28

Definly the adapter is needed in order to make hable to print with flexible filament. But from my experience and according to my test, another point is the pressure that the bearing that is in front of the gear drive.

To avoid the problem the module needs something that could graduate the amount of pressure that is made to the filament when entering in the extruder. In order to prevent the hanging of the filament because when hanging, it is blown inside the module and can not be extruded correctly.

This is the test that I made few weeks ago: https://www.facebook.com/groups/snapmaker/permalink/442018649549787/


#29

I did not reversed the spool, but I had to keep the tip of the filament very straight and feed it slowly. When I felt that the tip of the filament was well tight, I stoped feeding it and just started my printing.


#30

@evandrofalleiros Congratulations!
You seem to be the first one successfully printing a fully flexible TPU on the Snapmaker.
This is one of the major reasons I bought the machine.
Which brand is the TPU?

Welcome to Tomorrow
Ralph
Product Designer @ id-z.one


#31

@bCreative I am very eager to seeing your results in Ninjaflex!


#32

On your link I can’t find any option other than to purchase do you have a direct link to the .stl file?


#33

If you sign up for a free Shapeways account, you can log in and download the STL.


#34

im doing well with TPU i got from amazon, its pxmalion brand. its no fun to get loaded, but i think i have most of the settings tuned in. im printing a couple examples and will post results.


#35

Nozzle Diameter : 0.40mm
Extrusion Multiplier : 1
Extrusion Width 0.40mm
Layer Height: 0.30mm
First Layer Height: 80%
First Layer Width: 100%
First Layer Speed: 50%
Skirt Layers: 1
Skirt Offset from Part: 8mm
Skirt Outlines: 2
Outline Overlap: 30%
Heated Bed: 65c
Extruder Temp: 230c
Default Printing Speed: 900mm/min
Outline Underspeed: 100%
Filament diameter 1.72mm
Retraction: Disabled

I hung the filament about 12 inches above the printer to give it time to straighten out as its pulled - dont know if this helps but i did it.

Whats important is getting the filiment diameter correct and i turned up the extrusion multiplier from 0.8 to 1.0 which was what i was using for PLA.

Turn off retraction and slow everything way down.

I use the big skirts to prime the nozzle since warming up the head seems to drain the filament out so nothing prints for sometimes the whole first pass of a skirt. Prime!

if i didnt urn up the extrusion multiplier the model is easy to rip apart on the Z axis.

After a few semi-successes followed by 5 jams in a row i put @jjestings modification in and havent had a jam since.|
:fist_right::deciduous_tree:

Now i can reliably print objects that look good and dont rip apart.


#36

i might be running into problems with more complex shapes. updates to follow


#37

I’ve read that it may be good to put the filament in an oven at 200 degrees for 4-6 hours prior to printing to help remove moisture from the material, has anyone tried that?


#38

Doug the newbie here… that does not sound logical given the melting temperatures of many filament types… I would think that you would only end up with a solid lump of filament on the reel


#39

It still jams eventually, unfortunate , i will have to look into this modification. The filament has little waves in it from the way it is wrapped on the spool. Print quality is good until it jams.


#40

depends if its 200f or 200c