First Start Problem / calibration

Hello,
i started my A350 at the first time.
The Instructions tell me ich need to start a Bed Calibration for the first time.
If i start this, des Printhead will move to right and the bed move but the Z-Axis dont move.
What can i do?
The Last screen the Controller are a information i need to setup the last Calibration point manually.

Sorry for my bad english!

First, check that you’ve got all the cables plugged into the correct sockets. It sounds as though you might have the Z-axis cable in the wrong place.

Secondly, assuming the print head is up high, does it move smoothly if you press downward on it with your hand while the machine is off?

Thank you for your answer.
Is look for the right plugged cable position.

Z is at the 5th socket from the top like the instructions.

The Printhead (z axis) are smooth like the x or y axis.

At the calibration, the both z linear slider runs no one millimeter.

meanwhile, i tried to change the z cable with the y cable or x cable and wanted to move over the connected luban with my notebook, so i can move all axis but not the Z axis, it seems like the z axis are not active :confused:

My best guess at this point is that you have two bad linear rails. There could also be a problem with the Z-axis port on your controller.

You should contact support@snapmaker.com , because you’re going to need either replacement parts or a special firmware that swaps some of the ports.

I found the Problem, of course i inspect all cables but as one Reason, i needed to switch the both Z axis cables from the Linear Sliders at the Cable Converter Block (how was the right name for this?)
But Thanks you for your help!

I have the same problems, but I can switch cables and everything else I read.
I was able to start it once, but since then, it makes a short noise an then it stays off.
I’ts depressing :frowning:

Edit: I get it working with Luban via PC. So I think it’s the display. I already send an email to the support with a video.

same here, spending hours of hours to check everything is correctly setup and the failure isn’t by myself.
The support doesn’t respond, that another thing of many which really sucks
Horrible support and they don’t care! You can only rely on the community .

Same problem here - Failed upon first run. What a POS for 1300 when units a tenth of the cost work turn key. anyhow, after assembly It failed the 3dp bed leveling missing some of the 9 points before ending in manual calibration. I manually set it properly and the save button would not illuminate. Unit is stuck at calibration at startup menu. Looks like the prox sensor is too high off the deck as after checking the cables, swapping some [after disassembly and verifying all modules operational] and reading the forum and emailing support for a proper setup datasheet with this info, I tried a few more attempts to get a good 9 points including manual calibration and a blue save button and does not appear. The nozzle did however on attempt 7 or 8 dive into the deck so hard as to slip the stepper motors and cause a loud squeal and dent the mat it in a few spots. I think either the sensor is faulty, or the nozzle is sitting too low as to prevent the sensor from picking up the deck, either way Its a factory issue, even if its firmware based as I shouldnt have to be concerned about a unit destroying itself the way this thing goes about crashing its head into the deck over and over to no avail! this is seriously the dumbest engineering fail I have ever experienced in 40 years of all areas of retail electronics, toys or whatever you want to compare it to. A high end unit like this should be turn key tested and QC before leaving the factory. Not kicked out to the wolves to fend for ones self.

Does anyone out there know the distance the prox sensor begins picking up a surface or its useful height / where it should ride above the bed and its relation to the nozzle which should be less than .4 certainly. I see theres an adjustment screw on the back of the module and another thread said something like put a credit card under the prox sensor and the nozzle should be a little lower, but the image showed the nozzle wasnt even touching the bed, it was higher than the credit card 1mm gap that the sensor was sitting on and no bead of filament will get squished in that setup. Maybe I just answered my own question. So much for a Snap-maker. Not so snappy It would seem - I dont have time to trouble shoot this **** It should just work - Lame!

Every single time I’ve read something like this before, it ended up that the machine was not correctly assembled.

  • Are the y-linear modules mounted correctly and fitted in the recessed area of the base? (i.e. not overhanging on the front or the back?)
  • Is the aluminum bed frame (the spiderweb thing where you mount the plates too) mounted correctly, i.e. are the nuts facing the bottom and not the top?

Provide pics if you want confirmation that machine is assembled correctly. Full view of the machine, front and side

@dankif
It may not be correct, but I thought I read something about a save button, which is only visible by scrolling down on the touch screen.
I guess you tried everything, it just came into my mind.

Phil

Also make sure you have updated to the latest firmware.

With the new linear modules there is also the problem that they’re not all interchangeable anymore. Z-axis are different.
-S

Bei mir funktioniert nach dem Zusammenbau auch die automatische Kalibrierung auch nicht. Nach dem Start fürchterliche Geräusche, das ganze Gerät wackelt, Zum Schluss steht die Düse rechts neben dem Heizbett. Weiter laute Geräusche. Man kann das Gerät nur ausschalten.

Habe das Gerät gründlich auf Zusammenbaufehler untersucht. Nix gefunden.

Hoffnung habe ich nur noch das ich die Linearantriebe falsch verwendet habe.
Woran erkenne ich die X-, Y- bzw. Z-Achsenmodule?
Haben diese eine entsprechende Kennzeichnung?

Oder hast Du einen anderen Tip?
Vielen Dank erstmal vorab.

Hallo Ruppi, bei mir hatte es tatsächlich geholfen anders als bei der Aufbauanleitung beschrieben die kabel einmal vertauscht anzuschließen.
Danach waren lief es besser. Allerdings ist mein kalibriersensor vom Druckmodul defekt und warte noch immer auf einen Ersatz :confused:

Vielen Dank für die Antwort. Das klingt nicht gut.

Hallo Ruppi

Die Module sind unterschiedlich beschriftet. Einmal mit 8mm und ein Mal mit 20mm!

In deiner Anleitung ist genau beschrieben, welche du wo einbauen sollst.

Stimmt.
Habe es geändert und jetzt lief die Kalibrierung super.
Vielen Dank.
Ich hatte beim Aufbau eine deutsche Anleitung aus dem Internet verwendet, die sehr sehr ähnlich zu der mitgelieferten Anleitung aus sah.
Aber die Seite mit der Beschriftung hat gefehlt.
In der mitgelieferten Anleitung (englisch) war aller korrekt !
HG Frank