that has got to be one of the best default out of the box dual color prints i have seen.
2 Likes
Thanks! Thereās another one on Facebook someone did after mine and itās black and green. Looks amazing.
Hereās my current print. Iām testing pva supports.
Hey! Could you please link your buildsheet? Thanks!
1 Like
Itās an energetic. I wouldnāt buy it again. The first one was damaged. This one hs a failed bubble where their coating didnāt stick. Itās single sided. And it was 60 bucks with shipping.
I bought it off alixpress when people on here and Facebook were pushing that the bed adhesion issues were the bed sheets. Turns out I just didnāt know how to level my bed or do a z offset calibration very well.
Anyone on here experiencing āheat creepā? On the Facebook group someone assured me my nozzles are going to fail because the hot ends are designed wrong. Thoughts?
See discussion here: Dual Extrusion Head: Heat creep? More likely: Bad feeder! - long story short: There are problems with the feeder, but if they are responsible for the fails is a matter of discussion. Also, firmware pre-1.15.21 according to changelog had a bug where the hot end fan switched of in certain situations, so heat creep might have been a problem after all.
On Facebook and here there are reports for people running long prints successfully, some even with great results, while others try and try and fail. So, might once again also be Snapmakerās bad quality control.
1 Like
The guys telling me that the fan for the hot end is pulling air from the nozzle from near the print surface so it causes it to heat creep.
how will this manifest? Iāve been printing all weekend; absolutely zero issues.
Thanks for this information. I also bought a Pei sheet from ali, but without this energetic sign on it. It is two-sided and okay, so I bought a spare one. There was also a magnetic sticker in the package.
I just wanted to know what is special about yours.
1 Like
Absolutely nothing. My last snappy sheet I used some wood glue on it to keep a failed support up for a telescope part and this one was next in line 
I have good success with the snappy sheets and hair spray.
Indeed I find it unusual that Snapmaker decided not to blow cold air onto the heat sink, but rather to pull warm air away from it. I assume that is to avoid that part cooling sucks in warm air that previously has passed the heat sink, which was a problem of the kickstarter version of the SX. However, I have difficulties to believe that this leads to a significant impact on the heat sink temperatures, even considering that close to the bed warm air might get in. In order to become problematic, the heat sink would need to get so hot that plastic melts prematurely, and that would mean considerable heat. When I hold my hand in front of the vents of the heat sink cooling, it is barely warm - too cold IMHO to suggest a heat creep problem. In order to be 100% sure, someone would need to attach a temperature probe to the heat sink and measure tempās while printing.
The story changes when the cooling fan indeed, as the firmware changelog states, switches off at some point, and my careful guess is that this is what happens with many the failures. Paired with the acknowledged fact that some feeder levers have issues, that might explain most cases.
As you state, you have no issues, and many others do not have the issues. I had the issue once with 1.15.19, but a 5 hrs print with 1.15.21 went along with no issues. With the firmware bug fixed, maybe a lot of cases will go away.
1 Like
He suggested I put my hands in front of the vents too; I came to the same conclusion as you; the temps are warm but not any warmer than Iād expect from an exhaust fan. That would explain a lot why I havenāt seen any issues but the prior monthās experiences were different.
There is a lot of FUD out out there like when we first got our snappies.
Thank you, your threads were a good read. One more question, there is mention of a spacer to keep the levers from popping out? I couldnāt find that. Do you know where thatās found?
Take care,
Chris
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4001143014312.html
Looks like the price of these things really came down since I bought mine. Might be worth a look; at these prices the defects might be OK. They are single sided.
@mads0100 - Post 107 in this thread
1 Like
I gave my dual extruder a new chance. And i opened two new Pla for calibration and first prints. So i updated Firmware and loaded newest luban and did one out of the box Job with the Spaceman phil. The results were okay. No stringing, no clogging, no oozing. Much better then my last attempts. Then i switched to my problematic(dryed) pla and get a new clogging within minutes. Used Same Pla with a single extruder on other snapmaker: again no problems.
Then i switched Materials to petg. And again oozing, oozing, oozing. So i will tune settings today and give another try with abs.
PETG often has problems with stringing and oozing. PVA does, too. To me, thatās one advantage of the PLA, stringing and oozing arenāt as much (or at all) an issue.
If you havenāt calibrated your printer again with the dual extruder, I highly recommend this site: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html. The e-steps calibration is super important as that is a foundation for many other things.
I have printed with 3 year+ old filament with success using the dual extruder. But, compared to many here, I have been using PrusaSlicer. The latest pre-release version does a great job. Yes, there is more of a learning curve than with something like Luban, but the upside is that you have many more choices about how to deal with issues.
Yeah, when there would be some nice introduction for cura with primetower and estep, I will absolutely switch back from luban.
But my attempts with cura were really really bad. I found some users who were able to use a primetower and use esteps. But the nozzle switch code was not really intuitive useable and adaptable for me. Since snapmaker allows just one value for the dual extruder e steps and my hotends need different values, I had to add an e step script, a primetower script for correct switch (on my last try the nozzles drive to primetower, but earlier switched on my print) and maybe I need some code that the inactive right extruder runs max height, that oozing is not that relevant and runs min height on print, so that left extruder oozing is less relevant, then maybe I can use this. But I have not the time to check and test this on my own. So I will switch back to single extrusion. It makes much better results for me with less tweaking. Calibration works fine and I have no nozzle switch stuff. And 90% of my prints are in black abs.
Had my first 37 hour print. PVA is awesome; as advertised. I think the pre-defined snapmaker PVA profile had the temp off. I used mid-way between their recommended at 220C. Make sure you use grid or triangles. Since youāre washing it off, you can use a stronger structure. I had a few supports break off as it printed. Soaking in hot (not scalding, basically water heater warm) makes it gooey. If youāre impatient, plastic silverware is a great way to scrape it out.
Otherwise, default settings for PVA. Luban 4.7/1.15.21.
Can you Show us the Back side after cleaning? Am really interested in the quality of the first new lines.
NVM: The first pic IS the back side? So the PVA Side? This is really impressive.
1 Like
First picture is the side facing the bed. The big lesson for me was using a grid or triangle support structure. Some of the lines collapsed at the edge of the bed by the barrel.
But yea, super impressive right?