Hi,
I’m getting false run-out detections on my Snapmaker 2.0 with dual extruder. Do you know where the sensor is located? Is there a design schematic for Dual Extruder somewhere?
Maybe I just need to clean it but I do not know how.
Hi,
I’m getting false run-out detections on my Snapmaker 2.0 with dual extruder. Do you know where the sensor is located? Is there a design schematic for Dual Extruder somewhere?
Maybe I just need to clean it but I do not know how.
Thats a good question. I haven’t really taken mine apart to look at it yet. The single extruder was a limit switch that was kind of precarious in its design and tended to get jammed up, particularly if unloading a really short piece of filament.
If you end up looking at it id love to see some pictures of how it is. I believe I had read they kind of reworked the concept but I don’t remember how. I have to assume its still a switch but maybe they went with a capacitive sensor of some kind instead.
false run-out detections on my Snapmaker 2.0 with dual extruder fix
Lauch Luban Connect with usb cabel computer + snapmaker
M412 S1
M412 S0
M412
Disabling the switches I take it?
Thanks, that is useful (I will try it) but not a solution. Run-out detection is useful when it works
Good luck getting to the switch. It’s inside the feeder tube.
Dualextruder how can i fals run out fix
Cleaning feeder tube how can i do
I know I’m a little late to the party, but I myself just dealt with this issue and thought I might shed some light on the situation for anyone else.
First off… what a piece of garbage limit switch. One of the smallest limits switches I’ve ever seen and the leaf/button, whatever you want to call it, is the tiniest, most brittle little piece of plastic. My guess, the plastic doesn’t hold up to the constant heat and cooling, eventually rendering it too brittle to hold up, and it just crumbles.
This page is very helpful, HOWEVER, you can do the first 5 steps, and then remove your sensor. No need to deal with all the extra hassle of removing motors and unplugging everything.
Back screws (4), Top screws (4), Pull out the top, unplug motors so you can fold the top board out of the way, use a long 1.5mm hex driver to get around the small motor in the center, and take out the one screw holding the sensor in place.
I knew my sensor was bad, so I was hoping I had a small enough switch to replace it with, and I do, however they all require too much force to activate. The sensor has a small metal cover that holds everything in place, if you remove this and the insides, you are left with a plastic box with no lid (empty switch housing), that has 2 big contact points inside. So I just dropped in a bit of solder to make permanent contact. IMO, it’s better than having to use the console to input M500, or whatever the code is to disable the sensor. I’ll be diligent about checking my filament levels until I get a replacement.
Hope someone finds this helpful!