Could I get a refund for the set of filaments which I had purchased from http://shop.snapmaker.com as the filaments keep getting jammed inside the extruder gear? I had managed to remove the stuck filaments umpteen times to the point where all the screws had become blunt including the Hex Socket Grub Screws (for tightening the Thermistor as well as the grub screw for tightening the extruder head stem), M screws for tightening the heat sink and the flat head screws for the Extruder Module side panels.
The reason I am asking for refund is because the filaments purchased from Snapmaker had caused the jam and wasted alot of my time fixing the issues more than doing productive work and 3rd party filament has no such issues.
It has been days and nobody from Snapmaker responded to my email yet.
Either Snapmaker:-
refunds me or
sends an improved version of the extruder module which is easier to dismantle or
sends an add-on bracket for the inner cavity of the module to prevent clogging or melting or
sends me some Hex Socket Grub Screws and set of Extruder Module screws.
I am ok with the last option.
So far I had only used 2 of the 4 filament rolls (Grey and White).
I disagree. I had tried many different settings and even purchased many 3rd party filaments just to confirm it is not the quality of the filaments or the settings which is causing the jamming problem. I had also saved several customised settings to compare the different results of the print. As such, I conclude Snapmaker filaments are the main cause of the problem. In fact I threw away the entire roll of white filament which came with the Snapmaker Original Kickstarter purchase as it had become brittle. I then purchased a set of 4 filaments from Snapmaker shop to print. I would advise every user to verify if what I said is true or not. I would also invite users to verify if they also encounter stripped screw heads after a few tightening and loosening.
In fact the X-axis is slightly not parallel to the heat bed or not perfectly perpendicular to the Y-axis. This will become more obvious when I mount the engraver module onto the X-axis.
Snapmaker support had advised me to swap the axis and the issue improved but it is still a little off parallel or slightly not perpendicular to the Y-axis.
Do let me know if anyone also encounters similar issue.
To add-on, even with the use of the Teflon tube, the positioning of the filament holder is also not friendly for a few reasons. My SM1 (Snapmaker Original) is housed in an enclosure. The filament has to go through a small hole at the back of the enclosure. To get to the extruder inlet, the filament has to negotiate 2 bends. Somehow the filament gets dragged through these bends and this causes the filament at the entrance of the inlet to bend even though teflon tube is used. This could also be one of the reasons why Snapmaker filaments get stuck inside the module. Having said that, this does not happen to the other filaments I had purchased elsewhere.
Hey @splt7190.
I had no issues with the original filament which came with the kickstarter bake.- it was white i guess.
Your heatsink cooler was on while printing, right?- If off,- this could cause a filament jam at the extruder wheel.
Probably your retract settings could be a bit too high or maybe to fast, grinding the filament and get it out of shape.
Have a look at this adapter for your future prints, it makes it ways better (there is also a version on thingiverse, print it at least with petg or abs) :
X-Axis not parallel:
Yes it isn´t, but you calibrated your bed, so the Z-axis will raise every time to the correct Z-offset.
Thank you xchrisd for your conrtribution. Please see my reply to your questions below:-
Have a look at this adapter for your future prints, it makes it ways better (there is also a version on thingiverse, print it at least with petg or abs) :
Yes I had already read about that flexible filament adapter thingy. Awesome tool but I would prefer Snapmaker to provide backer like me with one for their design flaw or lack of hindsight.
Your heatsink cooler was on while printing, right?- If off,- this could cause a filament jam at the extruder wheel. Probably your retract settings could be a bit too high or maybe to fast, grinding the filament and get it out of shape.
I have no issues with the heatsink positioning and functionality of the heatsink. In fact I can do my own servicing and repair. As for the settings, I had tried all combi of settings including the retract settings and speed of printing (Snapmaker Edwin had in fact advised me to tweak all these settings before when I was experiencing a different warping issues some time back). The jam issues still exist but here I go again - It doesn’t happen to other filaments I purchased elsewhere.
X-Axis not parallel: Yes it isn´t, but you calibrated your bed, so the Z-axis will raise every time to the correct Z-offset.
I have no issue with the Z-axis calibration xchrisd. What I am saying is you have to tilt your object slightly at an angle on the heatbed or engraver plate whenever you need to perform CNC or laser engraving otherwise your CNC or engraved picture will not be perpendicular to the plate.
This is probably not related, but I will note that filament does become brittle over time as it’s exposed to humidity.
You mentioned being a v1 kickstarter. I live in a desert, and I can get 10-11 months out of my filament before it starts breaking. Mine broke outside of the print head, but your pictures (esp. the first one) look like the filament is broken.
If your filament has been exposed to the air for a year, it’s expired. Bin it, and get a new spool.
Those photos I shown are filaments which I had just purchased from Snapmaker last month. They are broken because they had to be broken so I could pull them out. All the screws are already stripped and I didn’t want to repeat the process of dismantling the gear motor.
I had already thrown away the brittled one last month.
Thanks @jattie for the contribution. By the way where did you purchase the German made or German quality screws. I would even want to buy the Hex Grub screws which hold the nozzle and nozzle stem.
