Just finishing building my A350 enclosure. Wonder why the filament holder is being placed on the outside of the enclosure. If you lower the holder arm on the z axis there is plenty of room to put the holder on the inside of the enclosure.
I have printed a filament guide to ensure it feeds cleanly to the head ensuring the feed is anticlockwise so feed from top of spool.
Any reason not to do this?
I have also mounted the psu inside the enclosure.
It does take away a little vertical height for printing but I’ve had this setup since I got it and have had no problems. I’ve never printed anything close to that big.
Definitely need a guide like you have because otherwise the filament gets wrapped around the z-tower when homing.
I would recommend not having the power supply inside the enclosure. Not great for the electronics as far as heat goes.
-S
@NailL
Hello!
Here are my thoughts on the question.
It is not recommended to install the power supply inside the enclosure.
As you can see from running the 3D printer for a long time, the room temperature inside the enclosure will be high during molding.
The power supply may have a fan running, but it will not be effective in removing heat and may reduce the life of the power supply.
Also, if you are machining wood with a CNC, the fine cutting powder will definitely get into the power supply, which will lead to a fire of cutting powder accumulation in the power supply.
Incidentally, there is quite a bit of electrostatic adhesion inside the enclosure.
As for the filament position, I’m not too happy with the default position.
So I drilled a 3mm hole in the top of the enclosure and hardened the area around the hole with a resin bond to make it more slippery as the surface tension makes it more rounded.
I am satisfied with the smooth glide even without using filament tubes.
If you don’t have an enclosure, I think the power fixing adapter you made is a very good design.
I hope you will reconsider it for safety reasons.
You make some really good safety points re the power supply. I am going to move it back outside the enclosure. Thank you for your thoughts on this.
I have also been sent another feed method using a printed unit with bearings. I quite like the setup i created with the reel inside the enclosure as the raised temp will warm the material helping to keep it dry. Test runs yesterday had no feed issues at all, in fact it was really a smooth feed, however I see the printed arm may wear with use.
Neil
I’ve been using a filament guide pretty close to the one that you’re using for 8 months now. (only difference is mine attaches to back side of z-towers).
I’ve had absolutely no problem with it wearing out or the filament wearing out on it. The orientation I printed it the strands are going length wise.
I did however end up breaking it last week when I managed to snag my sleeve on it while changing out tool heads.
I did add some skate bearings that I slid onto the stock holder to help the spool spin more easily. Some people have printed spacers to match the size of the spool hole, but I haven’t found it necessary.
-S
Not including some sort of mount location/position for the Power supply does seem like quite a large oversight on the part of the enclosure designers. Mine ultimately just sits on top, but I’d defintely prefer something more secure.
I also put my filament inside as you did. And like others I need to get a good filament guide. the one I had originally designed was ultimately not a good design.
I put my filament in the front corner in a sunlu holder. There’s a little room on the opposite side from the hand controller. I use a guide I printed to make it work either filament looped around the far tower.
I’d post a picture but they’re too big.
I would like to see if anyone has a filament guide that I can 3-D print and then mount on the inside of the eclosure?
There is definitely an issue with the filament not being guided and therefore it can cause a printing failure. If anyone has a .stl file for 3-D printing the guide please send a PM.
These are 2 designs I came up with.
Snapmaker A350 Filament Guide A.stl (610.9 KB)
Snapmaker A350 Filament Guide B.stl (113.6 KB)
I never tried the B version because the A worked fine. That is until I caught my sleeve on it the other day while vacuuming from cnc. Now I need to print a new one so I’ll probably try the B version.
Someone said it didn’t work with 1kg reel they had. It’s worked with all the reels I have. Unless I was printing something huge I could probably lower the reel.
Thingiverse has some other designs now. They didn’t have anything yet when I created mine.
-S
Thanks for the files, I will give them a shot today after work.
I have a video of a print in progress from the Snapmaker 2.0 with the enclosure. I do have the cooling fan running too so it does sound loud inside of there.
I have a RING Stickup Camera inside.
Thanks a bunch for the filament .stl file. Printed it on Saturday morning and installed it in the afternoon. Working great so far. I used the “A” Guide. I did not print out the “B” Guide but will look at it later.
The enclosed video shows the SM 2.0 at work on a project with the 3-D Guide installed on the inside of the enclosure.
Well SDJ,
Had a me-to moment. Managed to snap that long piece off the side of the “A” Guide, So I am printing the “B” Guide. Looks a bit more stout.
I’ll keep you posted on how “B” works.
I forgot to mention I did use PETG for it.
Flexes a lot more than PLA without breaking.
It’s usually fine bumping into it normally. It really snagged when I broke it.
If you raise your infill it will also make it more sturdy.
-S
My remix/complete redo to hold 4 Bowden tubes:
Filament Bowden Tube Holder 4 Tubes v3.stl (855.0 KB)
Works like a charm…
The “B” Version works great, so far no problems. I used eight skateboard ball bearings on the reel support and I can tell that they are making the reel turn much easier. The diameter of the reel support is 9mm, so if anyone wants to order the roller bearings from Amazon, use the interior dimensions of 9mm for ordering.
