Filament got glogged between extruder gears


every time my watersoluable filament got glogged between the gears of the extruder.

Can anyone help me with that problem?

thank you (595.1 KB)

There was a upgrade kit for the dual extruder but I am not sure if you have the new version.
Do you have air outlets in the front door?
There was a voucher for a free replacement kit…

Several people print the pva at 220°C but personally I have never tested it.

FWIW: Here are the settings I used successfully with PVA: Tabletop miniature with 0.2 mm nozzle and PVA support (Dual Extruder)

I have had this same issue. The filament texture is rubbery but also brittle. I am going to try Hauke’s settings as well as drying the filament some more and cooling, or keeping it cool, going into the enclosure and the tool head.
I have found that weather conditions outside, like extreme humidity, storms, etc. all affect the printing ability and quality. I have a much better result on cool dry days. I also have better luck after letting the machine cool off. This also has the added bonus of giving me a chance to cool off and keep from taking a bat to the machine. :slight_smile:

thank you for the response.

You print the support material not moore than 185°C for PVA? Thats kinda low isnt it?

This is the support material i use:

SA_Printable_Wrench_W_Longer_Screw (3).zip (595.1 KB)

Can u put your settings in this model and reupload?

Thank you best regards Stefan

8mm retraction. Software say not moore than 2mm

I did some research before using PVA, and most references suggested to try to go as low as possible with PVA. It works well for me/my PVA brand. PVA can “burn”, i.e. deteriorate if it gets too hot.

EDIT: Your data sheet indeed suggests to go hotter - no idea if they use a different kind of PVA or any additives - that said: I’ve seen datasheets that did not meet my experience. I always “allow” myself to ignore datasheets if I find it works better.

I ignore this. Snapmaker set this “limit” when they were still investigating the teething problems of the DX, and I personally think that this limitation does not make much sense. You have to be careful not to pull liquid material back into the cold zone, but 2mm is a bit overcautious. Looking on the hotend dimensions, I personally would assume up to 10 mm safe, but admittedly this is not based on a thorough analysis. Still, 8 mm never gave me problems.

Ok thank you. Can you use this wrench to put in your parameters and reupload it ? Since im new

Best thx

What kind of pva u use ? Ill use the one u suggest me

I use the sunlu filadryer. Still flogged between gears of extruder

Hey, did u find a solution already? Did Haukes settings helps?

I use eSun PVA natural:

@soletto I apologize, I have not had a chance. Been busy printing some lithophane’s for friends. I will try it by this weekend.

@Hauke, thanks for the additional retract knowledge. Every job I created with single extruder and have sent to the machine gives this warning if I try and print them with the dual extruder installed. I also have had the filament break on these jobs using the dual but single is fine. I am not sure if that is due to the retract or some other issue between the gcode for single extruder and what the dual extruder prefers. Maybe I should not be doing this at all?

In principle SX and DX should work with the same GCode… I use the DX as SX myself, because I find print results from the DX slightly better. Breaking filament may be an indication of humidity. PLA gets brittle when it accumulates humidity.

Hey soletto, I feel like I barged in on your thread and I was not successful with Hauke’s settings. I am using Snapmaker’s PVA and here is what I found:

I tried Snapmaker PVA with your settings and was not successful. I think that the Snapmaker PVA needs to be hotter to flow correctly but this also causes a bit of heat soak and softens the filament going into the extruder gears where it starts looping over itself. If I make the bed ~75c and the hotend ~230c it starts to stick better. I have the enclosure and was leaving the last segment of the doors open to help dissapate the heat, I have a Sunlu dryer and run the plastic filament tube from the dryer to the extruder straight from the back of the enclosure not from the side (I rotated the rear acrylic panel 180 degrees, the fan is top corner now and I use the power supply line access hole for filament, straight shot almost). I wish the dual extruder calibration tests allowed for easy reconfiguration of the temps. When I do make changes during the print they seem to revert back at some point. I assume each time it changes over from one hot end to the other the temps are set again??

In the meantime, I decided to see if the grass is greener and bought a different 3d printer. Sad to say but so far it may be, we will see in time. I am still a fan of the Snapmaker, because it does 3 things in one, but I might relegate it to the CNC and laser jobs mainly and print on it only when this new printer is busy. I will say, for me at least, each firmware and Luban software update has improved things; it just takes too much fiddling with settings constantly to get a print job to complete. Once I do I get on a roll, I can complete a few jobs in a row but then something changes and back to failures and fiddling. I wanted something a little more plug and play.

The new printer is able to print multi color and different materials (I tested PLA, TPU, PETg, and PVA) together. PVA worked much better first try even though it did not have a “profile” and I used settings that I thought would be good for bed and hotend. It handles filament loading and unloading for you. I had only one job release from the bed since I started using it. Some of the more challenging models I have downloaded in the past (multiple objects, both tall and short, and different filament types at same time, etc) have been completing first try and with greater speed/less time.

Curious to know which brand you bought?