I had no issues using the supplied black PLA with the default settings. I am now trying 3D Jake’s magicPLA , and I can’t get a proper print. The spec has higher temperature (215–235°C) but other than that I have no idea what to adjust. I created a new material configuration in Luban, using first the …

Start with the basic essential calibrations: e-steps, temp tower, retraction towers, etc. If you have already done your e-steps calibration, then you should not need to change it; post-calibration changes in filament type and densities should be handled by adjusting flow % rather than with e-step c…

What’s the authoritative pointer to “e-steps”? Sorry, I’m googling and there are random forum entries, but I can’t find really a guide how to measure this. It’s also not in the Snapmaker manual, apparently. Thanks!

[image] Summary: Extruder calibration a must Snapmaker 2.0 The topic known as: has become very useful to point people to so that they can calibrate their e-steps. However, that topic has become a bit large and overwhelming for a newcomer. So I’m starting this topic as an…

Thank you. I switched from the stored E value 212.21 to 226.963. I think this means it was slightly under-extruding (it travelled less than 10cm before). Question: does this value depend on the filament (e.g. the “strength” the extruder can transport), or can I leave that stored forever now? Trying…

Another question, as it seems really a problem of retraction. If I print a single object now, I thought it means the head literally would never have to make retractions / movements from one point to a different one, because it can basically just print the object continuously: [Screenshot from 2023…

You should be able to leave the e-steps indefinitely. E-steps tells the motor how far to turn to make a certain distance, and contrary to common belief, has nothing to do with the filament or nozzle. However, because of differences in filament/temp/nozzle size, etc., and the pressure required to pus…

I see, yes I think it was indeed mostly pausing between layers to let it cool off. Anyway. I did another attempt with a single print upright, and it was again pushed over at around 50%, apparently because it didn’t stick well enough to the bed, despite using a brim. [IMG_6902crop_sqr_mark_m] So …

I guess its too hot for such fine details. Did you print a temp tower? Maybe more cooling (or less heating) would help, part cooler 100%, additionally it could be necessary to cool the part with a pc fan or something else.

I would additionally check the “combing” setting in your slicer is set to “Within Infill”, and you may need to adjust the linear advance (A.K.A. “k-factor”). Make sure your line width and layer heights are appropriate for your hardware setup; Luban’s defaults are not always within the generally acc…

Thanks everyone for their recommendations and comments. I ran now with an additional fan on (after the initial layers were done), this seems a slight improvement, not massive but at least noticeable. I also slowed down the initial layers even more. For the next run, I will increase the layer height …

Custom PLA very stringy, bumps, layer shift

Snapmaker 2.0 (3-in-1)

sdj544 February 12, 2023, 5:33am 4

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Custom PLA very stringy, bumps, layer shift

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