Custom enclosure: power supply for LEDs, extractor, etc


I am very new to CAM. I received my Snapmaker 2.0 A350 in December.

After a couple of weeks of learning and running tests, I decided to build myself a (cheap) custom enclosure. I made the structure out of corrugated plastic sheets and duct tape, inspired by this post. It does the job but I’d like to upgrade it a bit with an extractor fan, LED lights and a camera. I would like to power all of this through the machine itself if possible, for convenience and to avoid having too many cables running out of the enclosure.

After a bit of research I found out that the machine runs at 24V, so I bought 24V LED strips, a 24V fan, a USB-powered IP camera and a 24V to 5V USB buck converter.
I am considering using the “Add-on 3” port on the controller, since it is the one used by the official enclosure. This post and this one make me think that it should be possible using the two big holes at each extremity of the female connector, which seem to be 24V on the left and ground on the right (when looking at it with the slot for the clip on top).

I have some questions:

  • I’m assuming I can get the 24V to power my things from the “Add-on 3” port just by turning on the power supply unit. Would that be the case or do I need to tell the controller somehow that something is plugged in and needs power?
  • Long term I’ll probably buy a spare cable that I’ll cut, but short-term I plan on just sticking 2 metal pins on a 3D-printed support (or maybe even just a piece of cork wrapped in electrical tape!). So basically ignoring the 2 small pins of the port. Would there be any problem with that if I just want the power?
  • Is there any way I can fry the controller if I do anything wrong with my wiring?
  • Any other risk to the hardware that I should know about?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide!

The “Metal Pin into the Socket method” sounds a bit adventerous to me. When you buy a 4 pin cable, youll have to make sure you get the Controller - Enclosure one, else it is keyed to prevent you form plugging in the PSU to a Module Socket. Form what ive seen in the Controller, each outlet is fused with a 10A (Trip, 5A Sustain) resetable fuse. so the controler “shouldnt” die when you short them by accident. “Shouldnt” specificly because others have killed their controller by accidently plugging in the Toolhead Cable the wrong way.
When you connect your equiptment, make sure the Voltages are correct before you connect the rest. Toolhead 3 has its Pusitive pin on the otherside then the rest of the connectors.


@bob2356 I see what you’re thinking but don’t do that. Get a power supply (like this, even comes with screw terminals) and just do your lighting completely separately from the machine.

  1. You will be creating an electrical hazard by sticking pins in, which will likely result in frying the controller someday.
  2. When you change tools the machine is off, so you’ll lose lighting.
  3. While the machine PSU isn’t really “overloaded” it doesn’t have a lot of spare capacity. Don’t add more load to it if you don’t have to.

Just power the lights via a separate power supply, it’s the right thing to do. Put a switch in a box like @sdj544 posted here: Sounds like the rotary module is coming pretty soon?


i wish the same, i want connect own LED to the Snapmaker , so i can control it with the Snapmaker Touchpanel
I cant understand why didnt have to buy separatly

Here are a picture of LED Strips for the Snapmaker , i think its from the road map , maby can the support say something, will it comes ???

One user designed a DIY enclosure controller that is compatible with Snapmaker 2.0. The movie and all the necessary files can be found on Youtube
I made this PCB controller and it works fine. :ok_hand:

thanks for info, but its to complicated for me

I will take 2 Shelly Plugs, a Shelly RGB Controller and one Power Adapter 12 oder 24v (Power, Light, Fan) and commands then with my own Smarthome command on Ipad, Iphone and Alexa too