I’ve struggled the entire time with my printer. It is getting better, but I still have issues printing a large print.
My brother and I are working on a digital kaleidoscope. It is a hexagonal array of LEDs that are controled with two spinner knobs and looks like a kaleidoscope.
I’m trying to print the honeycomb structure that focuses the LED on the diffuser. I’ve gotten a couple of them that work well, but it is a big struggle.
For those that have perfectly printing A350s, can you print the first layer of this STL? For others that are way more experienced at printing than I, any ideas on how to print this? Maybe I could improve my slicing.
Also, out of curiosity, how many walls are you printing with? I noticed an issue trying to print with 3 vs 2 walls. The two walls left enough room on the inside to use infill, where-as the 3 walls did not. I have attached slicing pictures for reference. I had issues trying to print all those little dots of the 3 wall fill, but had no issues with the infill lines from the 2 wall.
I tried both. I too get better results with 2 wall vs 3.
I can never have all the triangles actually adhere to the bed. So I always have issues on the first layer. As this is a light diffuser the first layer has to be perfect as you can see each imperfection.
I’ve thought trying to print it upside down with supports, because the notched area doesn’t matter. It cannot be seen. When I do this, the support material is so abundant and thin that it just makes a huge mess.
I am definitely a fan of painters tape. However, it won’t fix underlying issues. I use it to make bed clean up a breeze. I can print with the same adhesion and quality on the bare bed. So try and get your settings dialed first, before using the tape.
Try using a print temp of 210 for your initial layer. Also, what is your initial layer print speed?
Also take a look at these thread may be informative, may be rathole, but yes in theory it should be possible, and many do manage it. For some of us issues preventing it go beyond simple calibration / extruder / temps settings.
On the good parts of my stock build surface (aka 3x3 center squares)I can print PLA with great adhesion at 50 initial and 35 bed temp for other layers. On my energetic smooth PEI I have to print all layers at 60 to 70 to avoid warping if the object is tall. Just reference that build plates vary a lot, even when they come from same manufacture, personally I advise against using isopropyl alcohol on pei surfaces like snapmaker plate as it can remove the coating. Best to use just soapy water and rinse well. I have never had an adhesion issue on snapmaker plate, just layer thickness issues that affected adhesion - no adjusting of temps will fix that. Good luck.
I think 210 is too hot. When it jogs to a new position it oozes and then when it starts the next print it doesn’t print. So I’ll drop it back down to 205. You can see this about halfway up the left edge.
there are also just random places where it doesn’t adhere. You can see the “fuzzies”.
I’ll try the bed level square grid above, but it seems pretty good. Here is the data from bed visualizer with the bed heated to 70C and without correction.
IPA will not remove the coating on SM or PEI plates. Prusa, Creality, lulzbot and SM among others all recommend it (or denatured). Acetone will destroy the SM bed.
Ah. That’s definitely an issue. Change it to 1mm. And change your print travel speed to 100. If you can change the initial travel speed, set that at 50.
I don’t use Luban for anything, so I don’t know what settings are available or not. If you want, I would recommend using Cura. It’s free, and provides much better slicing options.
this is what i use in Luban for retraction, worked just fine to stop stringing on benchy etc
I use prusa these days, but found Luban to be as good as cura and produce identical prints (benchy tests) - only thing i really moved to other slicers for was ironing.
