Hello, i am an A350 user. In general, I am satisfied with my printer, but when I start printing large models, the corners and center calibration are not the same. It’s like there’s a slope on the table.
I checked the assembly and screws. I did the calibration.
In the center, the layer adheres very well, but when it comes to the corners, it stays in the air.
Where am I doing wrong? Or is this a manufacturing error?
I took a sample bar print and stopped it on the first layer. The print is nice in the center, while it stays in the air at the extremes.
It’s known that the bed isn’t very level on these machines. There are infinite threads about it here.
Update your firmware to 1.12.2 (or later, but the 1.13 series has other problems) if you haven’t already—it fixes a relevant bug. There are also ways to make the calibration probe more points than it does by default, if you think that might help. You can’t yet perform the auto-calibration with the bed heat turned on, but some people get better results by heating up the bed and running the calibration as it cools (others get better results by calibrating cold, so you’ll have to experiment).
Otherwise, your best bet for getting everything perfectly level is modifying the printer with a glass bed.
I’d also like to add to manually calibrate the bed instead of using the auto calibration. I find you get more accurate results that way. Considering the gaps in that first layer I think your z-offset may be off.
Thank you. Calibrating the bed doesn’t really change anything. Because the table is crooked, it is completely welded. Is it possible to request a new one for this platter?
[image]
You would have to talk to support about that (email support@snapmaker.com ).
If I set a glass tray for Snapmaker, will 3mm work? Does the sensor detect the glass surface? Is there anyone who has a solution for this, I went around the forum, but the links in the articles I found do not work.
The sensor does not detect the glass surface. Various hacks exist to get around this, of which the simplest is to place a thin metal layer between the bed and the sensor—see https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/for-all-who-want-level-on-glass/12437 for one solution (warning: very long thread). Other people have replaced the sensor with something that does detect glass, or simply level the bed manually.
People who have done glass bed mods here have used various types and thicknesses of glass. I don’t know of any reason why 3mm wouldn’t work.
1 Like
Keep in mind as the bed warms up the surface will deform a bit, so if you preheat prior to calibration (maybe 10-15 minutes at least) then always pre-heat for about that long before printing, your results will improve a lot.
Adjusting to a bigger calibration grid also helps.
The next level is…
I had a local glass company cut me some 1/8" glass (roughly the same as 3mm, a bit thinner). i got regular glass and pyrex. paid $9 for the regular and $65 for the pyrex
cut size i went with (since metric isnt a big thing here) is 13.125" x 14.375" which works well.
I haven’t even tried the regular glass yet, but the pyrex sure is nice. I’m sure regular glass is great too. leaps and bounds improvement over the stock platform.
the fifix mentioned above works well. the designer sadly passed away and the original link is down, but you can find the files on the thread.
recently took the leap with the IR sensor and wow that made a huge difference too, but just going glass over stock is a tremendous difference.
It takes awhile to get accustomed to the bed as is, but you can learn to work with it without going glass.
2 Likes
Hello everyone again, I sent a video and pictures about the trapezoidal to the snapmaker support unit.
Today I cut a special glass 4mm according to the snapmaker table. When I put the glass on the heating plate and remove the heating plate and leave it directly on the chassis, it was easily noticed that it was crooked.
I made a workaround myself until Snapmaker made a comeback. I attached the glass plate to the heating plate with clamps. (Not touching the extruder) Later, I pulled aluminum tape to the places where the sensor came from. (You can see it in the picture. Before sticking, I brought the pieces of tape closer to the sensor and checked whether the light was on.)
I did not have any problems with the calibration. It prints fine now. (I didn’t have my hairspray at hand, so I directly pressed on the glass. Of course, there were minor adhesion problems.)
Thank you all for your help 
1 Like
A relevant bug is putting it mildly. The machine was NOT saving the calibration data, so people would think they had a calibrated bed when they had nothing of the sort.
