It wasn’t obvious, it’s in the same vein as asking how to splice cables. Idk. Godspeed. Fortunately the touchscreen power supply is in a separate power domain so there’s a slim chance the controller doesn’t get fried entirely and just domain 3.
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I can confirm that the only thing the USBC connector from the touchscreen has in common with USB is the connector shape. It’s not actually USB C at all.
There is USB 2.0 in there but it’s only to connect the USB A port on the machine to the screen. The touchscreen itself communicates via serial.
I damaged mine. Researched it extensively. Bought a whole heap of USB breakout stuff.
Ended up getting a new one. It’s sad the curly cable isn’t modular, I agree.
If it helps, I ran the machine for over a month with just pure OctoPrint USB connection. Bed level and Z axis calibration is a bit annoying but doable over terminal.
True but only relevant to the fact that many USBC extension cables are active to maintain high bandwidth and have chips in them which will not be compatible with this machine. Passive USBC extension cables are compatible because all of the wires pass straight through.
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Oh yeah absolutely. Sorry I didn’t make it clear I understood that
Anyone have a link for a replacement touchscreen in the US? Looks like mine has met the same fate.
In general, the only way to get replacement parts like the touchscreen is through support@snapmaker.com . B&H Photo might still be willing to take orders for them (they were for a while), but my understanding is that they then contact support@snapmaker.com on your behalf and get you the same results with a little additional delay.
what i have been able to confirm on the usb c is that it does follow usb standards to a point see the chip they connect to bridges 1wire to two points on the header ive been using a ohm meter back tracking the little pin board to the usb connectors then counting the pins to the correct location for a map out so far good results im using a full usb c male to female breakout board i had to use my hot knife to cut the glue and get it down to just the little board they connect to. so far i have to add the second row of wires to the same cable they bridge the wires too
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I would love to see your results when you have them. I’ve been working on it as well, on and off. Ultimately I got frustrated after trying to get that glue off the end and breaking a couple of wires and not knowing where they were attached on the end. I just spent the $99 for a new screen, but I would love to have the pin out and salvage a perfect screen. The connector needs to be removable and replaceable…are you listening SM?
The pinout -
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