I am running into an issue where when running the dual nozzle printer head on my A350T that the heated bed will heat up to my starting temperature but then will eventually stop heating during the print causing the corners of my print to curl up and get caught on the nozzles.
I havent tested this to see if it happens with the single nozzle printer head but wanted to see if anyone else has come across something similar.
I checked the gcode and both M140 and M190 codes are in the in the file which would make sense that it sets the temp and then waits for it until it hits the intial temperature but the only other build plate code is the code at the end of the program telling the machine to turn off the heated bed.
Also to add more details, it is sitting in a basement in Wisconsin, but is in the official Snapmaker enclosure.
Try to lower your z offset and let the enclosure closed.
Do you clean your bed regularly? Grease could cause bad adhesion as well, I clean my bed with isopropyl alcohol every vew prints.
Preheating the bed could help.
Maybe print a brim or use glue stick if the models base is hard to print.
I have been using a hightemp PLA with the bed temp being set to 60*C and a nozzle temp of 225. I am getting great adhesion of the material to the bed, so much so that when the nozzle hit the raised corner it pushed the entire magnetic mat off of the build platform.
I do clean the build plate with isopropyl, usually every other print.
Again though the problem wasnt with the build adhearing to the bed but rather the corners curling up was a symptom of the bed temperature dropping from 60*C back down to the ambient temperature of the enclosure.
Are you sure your bed stops heating? Curling of the corners may happen even with the bed still hot. If your bed rally would stop heating because of a technical issue, the printer would stop with a thermal runaway warning. So either your bad is warm but you still have warping (solutions would be a larger brim, or something like this), or your GCode sets bed temperature to 0 - in this case, watch your slicer settings - most slicers have an initial bed temperature (first layer) and then a follow-up-rest-of-the-print temperature. This may in your case be set to 0.
It was written, the bed stops eventually heating. - This and the fact that a runaway error would usually stop the print let me further think about adhesion and curling problems.
I was finally able to get back to it here after Thanksgiving and sure enough there was a kink/cut in the cable. When the bed was in the ready position the wire was able to make a connection but when the bed began to move and the cable flexed it would separate the wire connection causing it to arc and the bed wouldnt continue to heat.
An odd dangerous problem but glad to have it sorted now. Thank you all for helping diagnose.
So we determined that it was a problem with the cable being split, and when the bed was in the prep position and preheating the wire would be pushed to be connected but when the bed began to move the wire wouldnt be connected any more and thus stop heating the bed causing the corners to lift and stop adhearing to the bed.
the good news is that it is right next to the bed. you can take this area apart and cut and desolder the wire if you have a soldering iron. you can make it good as new
Thank you all for helping diagnose.