Adhesion problems. Should I use glue?

So I have been some problems with my 3D prints. Some of the models I have been trying to print will have its edges curving upwards (almost like a starfish), bump and against the nozzle and be tossed out of the bed or get melted to the nozzle.

This here is the “Torture toaster” and I’m using yellow PLA by Devil Design:
Nozzle: 200 °C
Bed: 50 °C
Layer height: 0.16 mm
Speed: 100 mm/s

I even tried increasing the temperature up to 235° and 60° respectively, while slowing down the speed to 15 mm/s for the first 4 layers.

But despite that, when it comes to small sharp corners I always get the “starfish” effect. This being the case for the gears for the toaster.
I wanted to avoid using a brim with the same plastic because I’m afraid I won’t be able to remove it easily (plus as test print model it’s advised to print it without supports or brims).

Did you try to lower the live z offset?
How does your first layer look?

I rare cases it is necessary to use gluestick but you print pla, this should not be needed.

Try cleaning your build plate with ipa or something similar to get sure it is free of grease.

The Z-offset is the one thing I haven’t touched. As for the bed cleanning, I always make sure to clean it with isopropyl alcohol and do the 9x9 auto calibration before a print.

Short update.

I used an “adhesion test” model I found on thingiverse, and confirmed my inicial concern that the sharp corner have a tendency to slightly bend upwards.

Any insight on this?

That’s Warping. Here are a few Strategies against this: Warping | Simplify3D Software

I’d go for Brims.

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I’d like to use brims or even a raft as a last resort for this piece due to its moving parts.

But I apreciate the link, thank you.

When IPA isn’t enough, a good bath in hot water with an unscented dish soap (such as original Dawn) is the best cure for adhesion issues. Make sure to dry it with paper towels afterwards so no water mineral deposits stay on the surface, and be careful not to touch the surface with your fingers afterwards.


I have used hairspray in the past to end my newbie frustrations when all my jobs would separate with 10% left to print, etc. As my skills and knowledge increased I used it less and less often and now see it as the crutch it was.

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It’s always super satisfying when you get that first layer dialed in so perfect that when it cools down you can hear light cracking as it lets go, then when cool you pick it up, zero sticking.

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After manually calibrating the z-offset I saw improvement in the print quality and the print got past the 8th layer threshold.
Unfortunately, one of the center pieces detached itself.

You might be over extruding on the corners, z-offset may still be too low which can press the current pass into the still cooling prior pass making it curl up a bit when you get to a corner or the end.

You don’t sound like someone who has fiddled much with settings, hitting all the buttons to see what they do, etc. but you might reapply the last firmware you installed and/or factory reset the machine and all of the profiles for material and printing. I was having a bear of a time the other day getting anything to complete after the 3rd or 4th layer. I reapplied firmware and magically things started printing cleanly and completing again.

Last thought, if you have been banging at this for an extended period try shutting off the device and let it sit a day or two.

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