Hi - new to Snapmaker 2.0, but 10 years of 3D printers… ok, so I have had horrible bed adhesion issues (too stuck - have now destroyed one side of the bet plate) - and have noticed there’s awful bed leveling. Have read many threads about this… but wanted to share… looking for suggestions. Here are pics of a leveling test (2 layers at .16, from Cura) - print head set at very light friction with TWO of the Snapmaker calibration cards (using one, as described, makes the print head smash into the plate right at the beginning, knocking it off the bed). Leveling is awful at the lowest end of the plate, and this is after using the 25-point calibration setup. You can see the bottom lines, the head is literally dragging across the plate. Suggestions?
The stock PEI coated spring steel build plate is notorious for warping while heated. There are also many other factors that affect the bed levelling, of which I am sure you are well aware of some of them. This is my post about how I got my bed levelling height difference delta of 0.8mm in stock form, all the way down to 0.1mm.
https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/tramming-shimming-and-3d-print-bed-levelling/28307
If you don’t fell the desire to do everything I did, the simplest way to be able to eliminate quite a bit of the stock error is with the following three steps…
- With machine power off, manually push the z-axis rails all the way to the top, making sure that each rail individually “tops out.” Over time, due to minute variances between the rails, they will lose “top tramming.”
- Heat the heated bed to 80c and allow to heat soak for 30min before tightening screws, use only fingertip tight torque on the screws, and a star pattern tightening sequence from inside to outside
- Do your bed level calibration using manual mode and heated calibration mode (again, allowing the bed to heat soak for 30min before commencing with the calibration).
This is sufficient for probably about 90% of most prints that most people do, but to get a truly good full bed print it will almost certainly require much more effort in bed levelling.
First most simple question asked: You did the bed levelling/calibration procedure? Perhaps switch to 5x5 pattern and see if you fare better.
Most likely you are - like many others - suffering from a bad print platform. If your SM2 is rather new, contact support - I think many others received a replacement for the platform. Or search the forum for bed levelling issues - you’ll find tons of advice. This one might be good starting points:
Thanks for the reply. Yup, using the 5x5 (25-point) calibration. Was about to do the “manual” calibration, when I noticed (after viewing another thread) that my y-rails were overshooting the back of the platform. 
So, fixed that. I’ll be trying the manual leveling, now that the hotend is now over the plate. My SM2 is only a few days old (but the plate has a serial number of 0000019) - so hopefully I don’t have one of the original wonky plates.
Thanks - these are good things to try. One of the reasons I decided to “upgrade” to an SM2.0 was to reduce the amount of faffing around every time I need to make a quick print… ugh.
When I see nozzle grinding towards the front, I always think assembly error. Be sure the rails are seated in the recesses. It seems to be an all to common issue with assembly for many (for some reason).
@jonares Eventually you can get there, but sadly the documentation is severely lacking in just how much needs to be done to the machine to get it to that point. It’s not really the plug-n-play machine that many seem to think it is, though perhaps more so than many other machines on the market, especially given its 3-in-1 ability.
@snapUser A terrible reality. Those are the people who tend to not pay attention to the details in the assembly instructions as they skim through it in an over-excited hurry, because it is all there pretty plainly.
Show us some pictures of your machine.
Did you assemble the platform (under the heated bed) right side up (nuts down)?
Are your linear modules in the ground plate lowest area? Dont know how this is called…
Oh, you already found the solution…
Yep - thanks. Now I’m on to figuring out how to keep the prints from sticking TOO much. Manual leveling helped a lot, but still some serious sticking. I am perusing other threads and sites, and may start a new thread here if I can’t get much further to a solution.
I had the too much stick problem with the Snapmaker PLA, which I personally found very bad (others have excellent prints with it - I assume lack in quality control and the actual PLA all over the place…). So, perhaps try a different brand.
Usually this happens when you’re printing too close.
Try raising your z-offset.
You can also use glue stick or blue tape. Especially with PETG I like to use glue stick. Gives just a little more margin for error as far as both first layer adhesion goes, as well as release after a print.
-S
Remove the distance sensor and do a manual leveling.
After having a 2nd become destroyed from run ins, I didnt bother trying a 3rd.
since then I have actually had my best printing so far.
Thanks. I’ve now been using blue tape (and manual leveling). Haven’t used the Snapmaker filament - I opened the (nicely packed) box, and inside the vacuum-packed bag, the reel had at least 3 “ends.” Filament all broken up and tangled on the spool. The packing tape bit still had a chunk secured, but the rest was a tangly mess with multiple broken bits hanging off. Don’t have the time or patience to try to salvage the “free” filament.