The universal 1N4148 will work just fine for basically any fan in question.
I would like to try this too, since I also have cooling problems with the upgraded module. Would you be willing to share the STL for your version? Or does the original work for the upgraded module as well?
I used the original STL with support enable.
Let me know if you have faced the same issue.
I tried that fan mod too 2 weeks ago and had the printer stopped a few layers after the fan started.
I figure out through Octoprint that it was a “bed temp runaway” error. It means that after sometimes the controller figures out it is not able to maintain/reach bed temperature.
I had to drop the fan to something like 15% to be OK.
I think that mod blow too much air on the bed and since I don’t have an enclosure the air is probably too cold.
I ended up printing another fan mod found on Thingiverse with a smaller blower
There you are
The drawback is that when you change filament, you need to remove the fan, but it is easy.
But the “plus” is it don’t rely on a tape to stay in place.
Hi makers. I published 5015 cooling fan adapter for AT/F renewal module on Thingiverse.
Cooling fan adapter
please use if you like, Thank you.
Hey guys! I have the newest version of the printhead but also got problems while printing for example temptowers. The edges are warping at the overhang.
Did somebody of you testet usb fans? They are not fast as the one in the mod here, but its maybe enough. What do you guys think?
Has this been settled?
I am looking to implement this cooling solution but would appreciate clarity on which component to use.
My initial question was going to be “What diode do I use”, but after clicking on replies, I see the question of a Zener or a capacitor to be used.
I personally don’t think a capacitor would be the correct option, especially when working with PWM.
BUT… I may be misunderstanding this all anyway, so I thought best to try to see clarification before frying… er … trying it.
A 1N4148 diode in parallel to the fan is enough - using it since quite a while, no problems. You might argue that even the diode is not needed, but the few cents invest add a bit of safety.
Heyho!
A while ago, i got the “new” 3DP module, aka the reworked version with the better cooling.
After printing a few parts, I realized that the cooling is still lousy, so I wanted to move the cooling solution invented by @brent113 , which I implemented on my first 3dp module, to the new one.
I found the mod invented by @takeota which is designed for the new module (it does not cover the vents) and also enables cooling from two additional sides. I thought that this is great and wanted to give it a try. Unfortunately, his mod is designed for a USB Fan, but with some after print modifications (I melted a wire duct in with a soldering iron because the fans wire’s have been too short, and yes, i was too lazy to extend it again) I made it ready for the connection to the print head board. It was really important to me to make it work and controllable via gcode commands. Also, I did not want to buy m3 nuts, so I used the glittery sparkly magical unicorn hot glue of my wife to simply glue the fan on.
In fact, I have not calibrated anything with the new printhead. So I have some slight extrusion issues and so on. I just wanted to see how it performs on “high” speed, and 0.16 mm layer thickness and afterwards, when the cooling performs well doing a calibration round.
(Thanks to @Hauke who inspired me to use some faster print settings.)
I did two overhang tests, sliced with cura and 80 mm/s and 100 mm/s base speed. 80 mm/s is on the left and 100 mm/s on the right. 100% infill. Filament is Amazon Basics Transparent PLA at 205 C°
I think the results are super for a snapmaker.
Hello my name is Dumbo
Thanks, @takeota , your cooling mod is great 
I’m printing a fast benchy right now and add the results to this post later on.
Results after 1h 20m:
Anyone who prints cleanly is just too lazy to sand 
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I’m not sure why you added heat sinks, as they won’t do anything for part cooling. In fact, I don’t see anything in your picture that helps with part cooling. It looks like you’re trying to cool the 3D Print Module, but it doesn’t need additional cooling.
He replaced the complete stock fan with this approach - instead of adding another fan with a Y splitter.
Also, he adds a second cooling vent for part cooling.
I think he added the heat sinks, because the stock fan also cools the electronics, but his solution doesn’t. It only does part cooling.
Still looks like the most elegant solution at the moment.
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OK, so I have two printheads, one which I immediately clogged when I bought my SM2, read that there was a new one, and bought on the Christmas sale. I have managed to clog them both up. I’m wondering if there is a model like THIS (which has the extended fan shroud which keeps getting messed up) for the ‘not 2.5’ ? I have ordered new touch probes for both print heads, and planning on printing this one for the 2.5 head, but since I already have a semi-functional printhead I’m wondering if there is a way to modify it so that it can work with the OG one? The current state us that the shroud is broken out and the fan is nuked (got filament into it somehow!) So I’d love to ‘f around and find out’ since I’ve kinda already written it off.
You can remove clogs rather easily. However, if you are seeing this many clogs it is very likely that the nozzle is too close to the bed. If you notice that the nozzle is too close to the bed while printing the first layer, use baby stepping to increase the Z Offset. There are other causes too, like cheap filament, printing too cold, printing too hot, printing too slow, etc. You might want to watch some videos on what causes clogs, and how to address them.
This screen shot has no information on it that can be used, other then 25x30mm.
Need some specs
What specifically about this fan are you curious about? Are you just trying to find the correct fan? or is there something unique about this particular fan?
For reference, there is such a thing as too much cooling. One of the fan mods on this thread was overly effective and i couldnt run the fan low enough for it.