@brent113 First of all, acknowledgment where it is due… for the idea, the concept, the instructions and the basic mount… thanks man
I decided that I wanted a totally removeable frame and after some thought I came up with the design shown in the photos, which is made up of 4 parts, 1 of which is your mount and the other 3 a way to attach it to the tool head without drilling or gluing.
I also wanted it in ABS since I read you had droop and yes the tool head gets pretty hot, so I did that (for the first time) and learnt the hard way that you need a bed heated to the max, which in the case of the A350 is 98 degrees Celsius (and it takes 33 minutes at that).
The initial parts were printed with a bed at 85 degrees and yes the part that rests on the bed warped, but I left it like that as it does not really matter to me. However if anyone reading this wants to copy the design and use ABS, please keep it in mind. Filament at 235 and bed at 100 (98).
I will be putting it up on Thingiverse but here is what it looks like.
Now “all” I need to do is to work out the connections including the diode and maybe a switch…
@brent113 Hi. Can you please help me to get this part right?
I opened up the side of the tool head exposing the circuit board.
At this point rather than remove the board I was thinking I might just solder my 24V source and GND wires for the fan to the same pins that control the built in part cooling fan.
The pins are labelled and seem very conveniently located for a quick soldering.
But which pins should I use?
Can you maybe very kindly mark them for me (and perhaps others who are in the same position)?
There is some kind of pad underneath which I suspect is some sort of thermal paste. I am not sure I would be able to replace it properly, hence why I was thinking of working from the back. Just seemed easy and simple.
But your idea of using a voltmeter is a good one, although with PWM I am not sure the digital meter would properly display voltage. Still no harm in trying. Thanks.
Meters will display the average voltage. Full power would not have PWM anyways.
I believe there’s a couple screws in the back that will allow the heat sink to come out with the board, you shouldn’t have to be separating the heatsink from the chip.
I found the screws and pulled the board carefully out. Still need to identify which socket is which fan though as not clear from the pics. But a big step forward anyway. Thanks.
Edit. I am informed it is FAN 1 and yes I ordered the connectors to do it the "proper way, with a “Y” splitter for reversibility.
@hers_24 If you could share which fan you purchased that would be great! The earlier links to fans in this thread appear to have different sizes to the wording in the earlier posts.
Why do you need to use a diode with reverse voltage up to 100V peak?
Does the fan generate that sort of reverse EMF even though it is a 24 Volt fan?
Did you deliberately allow a good safe margin or was it just because you had this diode handy?
Thanks.
At the start of this thread I posted my measurements
However in the middle there has been some discussion that diode likely is not required. I still included it as it was not difficult for me to do, as it would add a margin of safety I’m more comfortable with.
Meanwhile I finished the project without the diode as I had to order a few. If necessary I will add it to the pins at the connector later. Here are some photos:
I will post them on Thingiverse shortly. BUT they are intended for the OLD tool head - the one with inadequate cooling and I have yet to try them with the new tool head (although I assume the proportions of the tool head case are the same)
I did take a slightly different route and used some leftover pieces of copper plumbing pipe I had laying around. I persuaded the tube to become rectangular at one side using a plumbing pipe wrench to fit the rectangular output of the fan and squeezed to other side to direct the air in the proper direction. (2 90 degree bends and a tiny piece of pipe to connect them.)
Need to do some additional testing but seems to be working pretty good so far. Attached it to the print head using painters tape on both the fan and the print head and instant glue in between. Is stuck good enough to lift the print head by the fan and removable if needed. I kinda macgyvered it
I did add a small capacitor to prevent the fans not starting when they are set at a too low speed and avoid the engine burning out. (and they also made an annoying noise when not set at full speed without it). Don’t use too big of a capacitor or it will always blow at full speed). Experimentally I came to 4.7μF. Big enough to have it run at the lowest possible speeds, but still small enough that there is a difference between all speed values.
I guess I won’t get any bonus points for printing the mod (ur using the cnc or laser). But at least it won’t melt
I’ve been battling to find the same 5015 24v fans on AliExpress that were used within this group.
Is anyone able to give a recommendation on a fan along with the diode that they used. I have no knowledge on how to determine the correct diode for a particular type of fan.
The print start and fan is starting to blow, all things are fine, up to a certain point. After a short period of time - 4-6th layer of a Benchy - the module disconnects completely. I have have to power cycle the printer.
First attempt with the fan speed at 100%, module disconnected.
Second attempt with the fan at 60%, module disconnected.
Third attempt with the fan at 40%, module disconnected.
I’m wondering if the fan it drawing too much power.
Has anyone faced such issue and/or did I get the wrong fan?
