3D prints stick WAY too well!

[BillR94]

I have my bed temp set at 60. Maybe I should try 50

[Atom]

Technically for PLA a heated bed is not needed, so try turning it down, I generally have mine set to 55.

[xchrisd]

I am sorry to say but, this is a useless discussion here.- Nobody knows what kind of filament you/they want to print or have printed.

Also saying, “my offset is 0.2” or “my offset is 0.15” makes no sense.
Did you compare your leveling results and do you level the machine from others to be sure there is nearly the same resistance of the calibration sheet?
@Carsten, @BillR94

I suggest to calibrate the bed while connected with usb and preheated with Luban,- so bed-temperature would be the same the whole leveling process (I print PLA, PETG, Semiflex with 60°C bed, ABS with 80+°C)
If you do a bit of searching in the forum you could compare your leveling results with others to see if your bed is more warped like others.

This is the only thing you can do to see if your first layer is good:- look at your first layer while printing:

3D prints stick WAY too well!

This is helfull for determining your z offset [image] Also next time you have an issue with it just topping extruding check for this: [904dac0c25256b49f2056c7c543f8c8212fcfb34_2_1000x1000]

On achieving a perfect level

Here’s a profile of how the Z changes with heat. This was done with a Dial Indicator at the center grid point of an A250. Points out on the edge of the bed are likely different. Z units are in millimeters. [Z-Temp Curve]

On achieving a perfect level

Hey @Tone, i wanted to share my dial-indicator results with you (A350, 5x5 grid): The heatbed itself is uneven itself, it compenates a bit while heating. Heating for 30min vs start printing right away after heating, difference of the points about 0.01mm to 0.2mm. Heating for longer than 30min (60min) brings no more essential expansion to my heatbed, ~0.02mm. heated bed without print sheet: cold difference MIN/MAX: 0.86mm hot difference instant printing MIN/MAX: 0.64mm hot difference 30min…

[Atom]

@xchrisd,

@xchrisd

Also saying, “my offset is 0.2” or “my offset is 0.15” makes no sense.

some comments are not helpful, your correct. Such as the z offset number, because the offset is based on how you calibrate.

@xchrisd

Nobody knows what kind of filament you/they want to print or have printed.

I personally never calibrate my bed heated, and have no issues, but as mentioned I don’t heat my bed as hot as others. And I find that heated calibration, while a good idea, takes to much effort (especially since my pc and printer are not in the same room)

@xchrisd

I suggest to calibrate the bed while connected with usb and preheated with Luban,-

Billr94 did make it clear earlier that he is using pla, exact type of pla doesn’t really matter as the steps described apply to pla in general.

Lastly

[quote=“xchrisd, post:43, topic:9546”]
This is the only thing you can do to see if your first layer is good:- look at your first layer while printing:

That first quote is from this thread.

Bed adhesion (the topic of this thread) is complicated and can be affected by many things, from extrusion rate, to bed temps, even nozzel damage. I feel most of the posts in here have been on topic and helpful, if you would like I can go through and remove those that are off topic or not useful.

[xchrisd]

I was not criticizing you @Atom, I just wanted to quote your post, because it is helpful.

[Phalynxx]

I had the same issue and it destroyed my 1st print however once I started using blue tape the prints have come off perfectly. I recommend blue painters tape in3, 6, or 12in widths depending on your print size. You may have to clean your bed with 91% isopropyl alcohol to get the PLA residue off before to make sure things are level.

[area13]

I am using a washable glue stick with good results, Call it a crutch if you like but for me it is just a part of the process.

[Kalmiany]

Magigoo, glue which is designed for 3D printers I have not tried it yet but all the reviews that I have seen really like it is a bit expensive.

[sdj544]

I’ve heard good things about magigoo but can’t imagine needing it unless I was using some type of exotic filament. Gluestick is cheap and works great. That being said I haven’t tried to print ABS or nylon.
-S

[Klusatelier]

Heat the bed and carefully scrape it with the knife-like thing (sorry, don’t know the english word for it) then use masking tape on the heated bed. Works like a charm. Just make sure you dont overlap the tape, it shows lines in the bodem of your print.

[oshiricohn]

I’ll second the heated bed helps with removing the plastic.

I believe what Klusstalier means to say ( please correct me if I am wrong ) is to heat the bed to help you get the plastic to release.

Then, the next time you print, use masking tape to cover the print area.

I can elaborate a bit on that.

I’ve found that I can almost completely cover the bed with 3M/Scotch 2.83"/7.19cm blue painter’s tape. The last strip is covered with the 1.41"/3.9cm tape.

I get one print per application, as to get it off I carefully remove the tape, and then the tape peels from the model easily.

At temp, it does shrink in a bit. When I last printed at 80C, the gap was approximately .0625"/.159cm. I wrap the tape around the edges by .5"/1.25cm as the ends will pull up. Before I print, I use a cylindrical smooth bottle and rub down the tape.

There was one time I heated the bed, but cancelled to correct an issue with the model. Then I reheated the same tape and ran the print. In places, I pressed bubbles back down on the bed.

I wear BBQ gloves to touch the print bed while I’m (carefully) pressing down the tape bubbles.
Examples: Amazon search
The ones I use are these: Pit Barrel Grips which are easy enough to use.

[Klusatelier]

Indeed. To clean the bed, heat it up and carefully scrape the plastic of. Personnaly i use the yellow painterstape as this one sticks a bit better and doesn’t bubble or shrink when heated.