I have the enclosure but the footprint is too large for my environment and I just want to use the 10W laser, when it arrives. I use a camera to monitor the work from my computer in another room so don’t want to use the enclosure at all.
Will the 10w laser work without the enclosure?
Yes
(need 20 characters)
1 Like
I’ve done it. I was lasering a piece of wood for a cabinet door project (for a resin 3D printer enclosure) that was long enough it needed to hang off the cutting surface and would impact the doors.
Smoke was a slight issue, but I didn’t need to do anything to bypass the enclosure detection. I was actually a little surprised I didn’t need to even try and fake it out with a magnet or anything, I may go back and verify that the detection is turned on in general. (I know the firmware recognizes the enclosure is there because it does auto-on my lights with power-up, and I had the fan running…)
1 Like
It may be that you experience this effect: Warning: Security issue - Enclosure door detection not checked at start/not fail safe
Thanks - it’s possible.
BTW, here’s the door in work. Will get plexiglass inside, sanded to frost it a bit where the laser cutout is. The big rectangular hole beside the lettering will take a temp / voltage monitor for interior…
Going to prime and paint first, then the back layer of slats can unscrew to insert the plexy and I can mask it if I need to touch up after reassembly.
1 Like
Nice woodwork, rtrski. Looks like a nice piece of maple. Did you use dowels to joint it up? I’ve used DowelMax and it’s a good jig for those kinds of joints. Cool design. Bravo!
Oh lord no, this is the ultimate in lazy ass woodworking! It’s 3 layers of 1/4inch baltic ply. I just didn’t want to bother setting up the router and my cabinet door rail bits for a single door for an ‘industrial’ pretend looking printer cabinet…
I just cut the two 5.5inch wide and two 3 inch wide sections for the front, and then 2 inch strips for the middle layer pattern reversed to run full ‘length’ instead of full ‘height’, then reversed again for four 3inch strips for the back layer.
Did the lasering, used the tablesaw with sled and a drill to finish the extra angled cuts, then literally just face-glued the front to the middle, and screwed the back layer in after some countersinking. Basically just ‘building up’ 3/4 ply with an interior edge groove to hold the plexiglass the lazy way. I’ll glue one of the back rails on, on the side the hinge pockets also need drilled thru since those need about 10mm depth so most of 2 of the baltic layers in depth. Should still be able to ‘slide’ the plex into the one captive edge formed…
A final table saw pass to clean up the ragged outermost edges, priming and painting white…unscrew 3 sides of the back, lever in the plexy, re-screw, touchup paint if necessary. I can already tell it’s not going to look perfectly one-piece clean on the front even with the ply in there supporting those thin front dangling angles. But it’s good enough for this purpose. 