Hi guys,
I’m waiting my Pre-Order SM 2.0 (A150) and walking the Kickstarter site I saw this nozzle:
What do you think? Could be a good improvment for my SM? IS the nozzle fully compatible?
Several users have replaced their v2 nozzles with other nozzles.
I’m not well versed in nozzles though. That post says the v2 nozzle is a Mk8, and the Kickstarter says the Tungzzle is M6. Some googling makes me thing Mk8 uses M6 threads, but don’t quote me on that. Hopefully we’ll get some more knowledgable users to weigh in.
Might be great, but there’s a lot of other nozzle choices out there that have been tried and tested. So why chance it?
It’s a kickstarter, so as anyone who ordered an SM2 knows, can turn into a wait.
-S
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@Bullone,
I would say it will likely be better then a steel nozzle for abrasive materials, but you will get worse performance then a brass nozzle. this is because brass is a better conductor then tungsten, but tungsten is a better conductor then steel. also a V6 and MK8 do have the same thread pitch (i have tested both in my ender 3) but the thread length is different, so it could require adjusting the bed sensor (depending on how far off they are, my ender 3 does not have auto leveling so i don’t know for sure) and it may not perform as well as it would in a hot end designed for a V6 nozzle (as the V6 nozzles seem longer to me).
i will say that it is probably not the best for the stock SM2 hot end. this is because the stock hot end uses a PTFE tube for a heat break, and while they claim a max nozzle temp of 275 (and you would need higher temps to get a less conductive nozzle up to that temp), PTFE is only good to about 230. So i would imagine if you run it over 250 regularly you will burn though hot ends at a faster pace, and most abrasive materials need temps higher then 230 to print well
in the end, probably not the best mod to invest in until both the tungsten nozzle and the SM2 are tested out, at least in my opinion.
I hope it is compatible. I ordered one. I’m still waiting on my snapmaker though so we will see if I get the nozzle first or the printer…
I’m curious how it worked out?
I’m still waiting for the nozzle. I have some wood filament projects planned once it arrives.
Maybe I’m wrong about this but I have never considered wood pla to be an abrasive filament. Unless it has a lot of hardwood in it it shouldn’t wear a standard brass nozzel, right?
It appears to depend on the wood filament.
I’ve yet to buy any but I’ve noticed that some brands list needing a hardened nozzle and some don’t.
Someone on FB was printing multiples of an item in wood filament and by the 4th or 5th he needed to swap nozzles.
Do all wood filaments contain actual wood?
-S
Depends on what you mean… there are wood colored filaments out there that call them selves “wood” filament. But I feel like that is a misrepresentation, when I refer to wood filament I refer to only those with some actual wood in them. Though even with those there is a great degree of variety in the type and amount of wood included. I have used some that has a low amount of what appears to be pine in it (based on color) and have had no issues with excessive wear on the nozzel.
I’m a bit surprised about this statement because I always considered tungsten a better heat conductor than brass (with tungsten at around 170 Wm⁻¹K⁻¹ and brass at about 120 Wm⁻¹K⁻¹ AFAICT). Do nozzles use a special brass alloy with better conductivity?
So I know I’m digging up an old thread but I finally broke out the tungsten nozzle. I destroyed 2 brass nozzles printing wood pla+ so I figured it was time. I’m happy with it for the most part. I did have to raise the temp 10°c for better performance. It also was a problem when the hot end would cool and reheat. It got clogged several times. It was easy to clean out but made me watch closely at the beginning of each print. I’m glad I bought them.