I, and others, will. Thank you for understanding.
2 Likes
Melitta,
I purchased the unit this morning assuming that this would be essentially the same as the Artisan unit (and would work on a glass bed), only to find that it is a dumbed-down version that uses the old induction sensor. Why did Snapmaker step backwards and waste time and money redesigning the Artisan version to make it worse, especially when you already had a working version for Artisan?
I credit the best three upgrades I made to the SM2 as glass bed, replacement of the very unreliable induction sensor with optical sensor (@stewl), and guide rails - with those mods it is so reliable that I can install the extruder, run an auto calibration and set the z-height automatically.
I’m really considering cancelling my order at this point, as reverting to manual levelling is not workable. My only other hope is that the new extruder can be retro-fitted with the optical sensor that I use on the existing extruder. (And all the stuff about optoelectronics for the z-height is just confusing - if you can do that, why can’t you use it for all the levelling?) P.S. - I know you will say “proximity sensor” - a proximity sensor just detects something is within a particular range, it can be inductive, mechanical, optical - your marketing doesn’t distinguish which.
Please tell me there is some opportunity for Snapmaker to have a think about using the Artisan version for the SM2 (and you could probably have saved a lot of design money). If not, I will likely be cancelling the order on the grounds that Snapmaker provided misleading product information.
hi, the Dual Extrusion Module is one printing head containing two independent hotends but not a simple mix-up of two single extrusion modules. The inner structure and working principle are more complicated. And we have made some great improvements on the Dual Extrusion too.
Firstly, let’s talk about the improvement: support more materials like nylon, HIPS, CoPA etc; dual gearing system ensures stronger pulling force for smooth filament feeding, even the soft filament can be fed into the hotend easily; the hotend is quick-swappable, you can replace the hotend within 5 seconds; better cooling capacity, the Dual Extrusion Module features a 4-Fan Cooling System.
Secondly, let’s take a look at how the Dual Extrusion Module works. The first problem we need to solve is how to switch the left and right nozzles to work. Initially, we thought, why not lift the toolhead up and bump it against a lever and there your hot end goes. But we gave up on this solution because of the loud thudding sound and chose to switch with a motor, which will be faster and quieter. The whole switching process will be done within 3 seconds.
Hi, the leveling sensor in the Dual Extrusion Module is a proximity sensor, the Optoelectronic switch only works for z height calibration. So, if you have a glass bed on your Snapmaker 2.0, when using the Dual Extrusion Module, you need to level the heated bed manually.
Thanks for response. In my head its kinda simple - 2 gears, 2 motors and 4 fans extra compared to 2x single extrusion module parts price is problematic to justify so steep price increase. I understand its probably more complicated - inflation, R&D cost included in price etc but I still feel you are getting too high cut from this item. I have bought it after all because it was the one crucial thing I was waiting for but I hate my self for it and thats not what I want and you want customers to feel after purchasing something. I hope you will find a way how to make things more affordable in the future - there is huge potential but kinda killed by pricing … + quality of software tbh 
(lot of bugs, slow development, …)
PS: Tho I hugely appretiate your presense and communication on forum - this is new and great 
[Oct 9 Update] I am afraid that there is no extra discount for Kickstarter backers. To express our special thanks to the backers, who have backed both Snapmaker Original and Snapmaker 2.0, we have sent out a 10% coupon to them in our Fifth Anniversary (2021). If you haven’t used it, you can check your inbox and use it on the Dual Extrusion Module for 2.0. We have sent out the code at 11:30 pm on Oct 15, 2021. If you didn’t find it, you can contact our customer service team at info@snapmaker.com for help.
Melitta - a proximity sensor is any sensor that is activated when something comes within range of the sensor. What is installed is an “inductive proximity sensor” - this only works with metal. What I expected (given it is on the Artisan) is an “optical proximity sensor” - this works reliably with metal and glass.
My experience with the inductive sensor and original bed was not reliable - I had to use the card every time and got quite variable levels (and print failures). But the retro-fitted optical sensor on glass works every time, and I can start a print knowing it is just going to work.
I am not going to manually level when I can automatically level with my current setup. Double extruder is a nice to have, but not if I’m going backwards in the workflow.
Please amend your marketing material to make it clear that it uses the old inductive proximity sensor instead of working like the Artisan model. Again - why did you waste money designing a whole new extruder when you could have just used the Artisan model, perhaps this is why the price is ridiculous.
So this is a frankenmodule? Not just the Artisan dual extruder with an SM2 attach plate, but internally different as well? Perhaps that explains the high price (low volume intent - specialty module whereas they hope to sell more of the Artisan machine with its version).
Price WITH discount is closer to where I expected final to be, 399ish, given the single extruders are 150. You get some uplift vs. just 2x singles, but not 40%…
Guess I won’t be getting this one. Will keep using my A250 as long as I can, been very pleased with it overall despite some fumbles with SW updates here and there. But suspect my next dollars for any significant upgrade or replacement will go elsewhere. Unless I’m just unrealistic about how much things have inflated and find out this is on par with other choices when that time comes.
No bitterness - I still have a great machine and will for some time. But I won’t be pulling this particular trigger.
2 Likes
I’m relatively new to printing so I am not sure how not having the optical proximity sensor is bad if I am not using a glass bed (using the stock bed that came with the machine). Can someone help me? I don’t want to spend $370 bucks on something that won’t work like I think it should.
You will be fine. The new 3D Printer Module has both sensors, each being used for different purposes. The fact that you are using an unmodified bed means that it was designed specifically for you machine. The “inductive” sensor is perfectly fine for anyone using a metal bed, and the flex plate contains a metal sheet in the middle. An inductive probe is extremely accurate at detecting relative distances, which is what is needed for leveling.
The ONLY people who MAY have issues, are those who have replaced the flex plate with glass. Most very high end machines use inductive probes as well, due to their high reliability. Both Voron and RatRig recommend using inductive probes and flex sheets. For the automatic Z-height, they recommend using a secondary system like a clicky, or optical sensor (what Snapmaker has chosen), but that is only as a convenience, and is in no way required.
Best of luck with your new hobby!
2 Likes
Thank you so much!! I am loving the world of 3d printing and I hope to get good enough to start making my own designs. 
Although math is not my forte so all this millimeter stuff is making my brain hurt. Thank goodness for conversion calculators! Lol!!
Not MAY, WILL for glass beds. I switched to glass after having a ridiculous number of failed prints using the supplied beds due to the poor performance of the auto levelling system using the induction sensor. Maybe they are recommended by some manufacturers. Maybe they are capable of very high accuracy. Unfortunately whatever SM is using does not seem to be that capable.
My point is that the Artisan model uses optics, and would have worked fine on both steel and glass, but SM chose to dumb the new extruder. A little bit of time spent on the forums by their design people would have made it clear that using glass is much more common than you might think, especially amongst those who are likely to be needing the dual extruder.
If you’re using the stock bed you’ll be fine
1 Like
Hi, I am sorry that some sentences has misled you, and we have explained more clearly in our blog and Pre-sale FAQ now! So why don’t we just use the optoelectronic switch in the Dual Extrusion Module of 2.0 for bed leveling? In terms of calibration processes, Snapmaker 2.0 Dual Extrusion 3D Printing Module uses the proximity sensor to detect the distance between the nozzles and the heated bed. Snapmaker Artisan Dual Extrusion 3D Printing Module detects the leveling stats of the heated bed by touching the build plate with its left nozzles. When we apply the same detecting method on Snapmaker 2.0, the platform of 2.0 will slightly warp after the nozzle touches the build plate, which will further decrease the accuracy of Mesh Bed Leveling. So, for the Dual Extrusion Moudle of Snapmaker 2.0, we still keep the proximity sensor for bed-leveling.
2 Likes
Thanks for this clarification!
Thanks for explaining that! Can you say a few words how the nozzles are made sure to align? Is there some calibration procedure, or are the nozzles manufactured to be within tight enough tolerances to always be aligned?
Hey of course! We have a XY Offset Calibration procedure. The printer will print one calibration model for X and Y orientation each. You need to find the best pair of the lines in the printed models to calibrate the offset of the two nozzles in the X and Y orientations. After that, you can choose whether you need to check the calibration results by printing a check model.
2 Likes
After buying the A350, then enclosure, rotary module, quieter psu and 10w laser, no matter how much I would like the dual extrusion module I cannot justify the cost.
I was tempted, but I’ll be passing on this.
1 Like
I would love to see video/guide of how this process works + how two spools are attached to enclosure. It would be great to see it all in action and have better idea how it all clicks together.
2 Likes
Do you know when this was sent out? I don’t remember getting this coupon and I just looked for it in my emails and can’t find anything. I was a backer of the original Kickstarter and also bought a 2.0, so I feel I should have received it, but I didn’t.