Unfortunately it looks like it’s still not good.
One strap came out just ok. It had a lot of stringing, the bottom wasn’t flat and it looks like the layer adhesion wasn’t good (I suspect this is because the first layer, while looking decent during printing, was actually a bit too loose.
The other two straps look like they again gouged a layer or two and the parts felt welded onto the print bed. They actually snapped while trying to get them off. I had to heat the bed up to its max to try to soften them up a bit and this still took a lot of work to get them off. No amount of bending the print bed helped and they needed to be rigorously scraped.
So, during the same print job I had one where the first layer and subsequent layers were too loose, and 2 other objects where the first layer dug into the print bed.
I’ve already reached out to support to see about getting a replacement and will have to mess with what I have until I can figure out what is going on, because it almost looks like a warped bed or something.
I’ll have to try the steps I’ve seen to fix the sensor placement and hope that’s it.
The product itself, at least as far as the quality of parts and sturdiness of the build are phenomenal! This thing is solidly built with no wobble or anything so it’s not like I think they tried skimming money to save costs, but I do think they could probably had a lot more beta testers to run this thing through it’s paces.
I’ll try to post pics of everything I have so far by the weekend
Ah - it sounds like you might join us on this other thread:
If your having half your bed too close and half too far then it sounds like a leveling issue. I would be happy to help you the best I can. To start try checking out these threads:
So why must we move the module lower on the z axis mount? Why can’t you leave the module in the normal position and adjust the sensor height?
@dharris2112 The screws are hidden in original place, so you have to lower the module to get to the screws…
Thanks. I didn’t have the machine in front of me. I won’t have access to it again until tomorrow. We’ll see how it goes…
I have this issue after I updated my firmware and the print head ruined my heated bed; now it wont heat up… what gives…
the X and Y axes are also wrong…
Make sure you have everything assembled properly (nuts down) and plugs are in the correctly
Yep, before this firmware I made a few successful prints… but the start location 0,0 seem to always been off the page/build plate…
Only small prints do well on our A350. The plate is so warped that anything beyond a certain size means the head scrapes at one area and the filament does not even touch in another. Leveling? no such thing on this unit. It does not work. Auto-level is useless, and manual only allows you to see how warped the bed is. No correction seems to be applied. Luban? Useless. I have bought .05mm brass shim stock, and will use it to level the bed better. Then we will use Cura and Octoprint to have the ability to actually control the A350. No, this will not void the warranty, no more than installing a different operating system will void the warranty of a computer. Check US law on this.
Go through this video, follow the directions to build the mesh in Excel. This will give you an idea on how far off your bed is. If it is more that 1mm then you may have a problem that requires shims.
If you are using Octoprint, install the bed visualizer plugin to see what your beds deviation is.
My bed is about .7 and I am able to get some good fairly large prints. I still have a problem using the whole bed though.
Just a side note on shims.
I used an 0.015" shim plate to level the bed, from a set of shim stock (McMaster-Carr) I keep in the shop. These are stainless steel shims, C40 hardness.
I did a test print, and the bed was level, tightened the four bed mounts a bit, and a few prints later I noticed the bed was high on the shimmed side … by 0.015". Removed the shim and the bed was level, and has been fine ever since.
The only explanation I can come up with is that there was a burr or some other protrusion on the high side that got flattened by the hardened steel shim. Same effect could probably be obtained with a stainless steel washer (4mm or #8 should do it). Grade 8 likely has too rough a surface.
The bed visualizer is the first thing I intend to use. I have also bought some precision levels to help check the bed surface.
I do not like how spindly the bed frame is, and suspect the coefficient of expansion could be different between the different arms due to casting or composition differences in the assembly. Even variances in the thickness of different areas on the assembly could cause uneven expansion. So if it was milled cold, the expansion would throw it out. I will definitely check for burrs or other manufacturing artifacts.
Funny, I used .03 and .05 washers to shim my bed. after a few leveling sessions, the bed went the opposite direction. I removed the washers and the bed is much better.
Cold, with OctoPi Bed Visualizer, I have 8.48125mm at 0,0 to 9.59201mm at 249,302. That is @ 1.1mm, which explains why trying to level it during the print exceeds the .5mm limit. Not sure why this is not a +/- value around a 0 point.
Newbie here. I have tried all of the above suggestions. It is still pushing the bed down hard. I am at my wits end. I’ve had this beauty since the middle of march and have not been able to do anything due to needing a new controller (which took a month of back and forth from a very helpful tech). Now all but the calibration is working. I am ready to cry at this point. I have the A350 my husband bought for a gift so, I need to have terms a novice can understand.
Hey @Steener, please make a new topic and show some photos of your device, to not hijack this thread.
Tell us what your problem is and if you ever printed with this machine.
Update your firmware to the latest version 1.12.1 (right now, i guess).
If you want so, give it a @xchrisd and i will come along, not loosing your post 
