Hi guillaumedavidphd, don’t be worried. 
We will send you a new one. Please wait for the support reply. After you get the new cable, you can print the cable protector in this thread to prevent similar damage: Heated Bed Cable Protector Model for Snapmaker 2.0 250/350
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@Riskey
Still haven’t heard form support…
I’ve passed your message to my support colleagues and them will get in touch with you asap.
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I finally heard from support. Their solution is to make me buy a brand-new heating bed and ship it at my own expense. Unfortunately, I don’t think this is satisfactory since the problem stems from a design flaw of the cable itself. It’s affected so many users that you guys have released an accessory build to help alleviate it. Since the problem is due to your bad design, I expect better than this answer.
Hi Riskey,
This issue happened to my A250 as well. It seems to be hard to get any response from the support email now; Can you ping people about it?
This is the best solution to keep the heated bed cable from bending under the back of the heated bed as it fully retracts, regardless of whether you use an enclosure or not.
Search Thingiverse for “Snapmaker Heated bed cableguide”
This angles the cable upwards to keep it from bending under the table, and keeps it away from the back wall of the enclosure. The parts snap together easily but firmly. There is another clip for the center of the channel guide that’s not shown. I didn’t print it because the cable stays where it’s supposed to with just the two end clips. This will be the last heated cable guide strain relief you’ll ever need for the A350.
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I Had also No Problems with that cable in my a150, a250 nor a350. It is Long enough and the enclosure is big enough.
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+1 on anderson powerpole. I use them on my astronomy gear… no more power failures. Super reliable.
@CNC-Maker, … 
that’s awesome.
Only bummer with your design is if you intend to put larger pieces of material in for lasering/cnc. I use 26" boards alot and they extend over the cable.
So you’re saying you leave the heated bed installed when you laser or CNC carve?
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@MikeG2 if you are me, yes I have left it connected and just left it leaning against the wall of my enclosure. If you looks closely, the zip tie is loose, so I can pull the connector through it if I want to completely remove it. Even if fully tied down, zip ties cost nothing, they come in packs of 1,000, 10,000, etc.
Had the same issue. I desoldered all four pads and removed the original cable plastic and designed something more robust. This is the weakest point on the bed heater, I would have figured after 3 years of complaints by out of the box users they would have redesigned it already from the factory, they were more than happy to say replacement cables can be purchased :
Alice (Snapmaker)
Apr 20, 2023, 12:28 GMT+8
Hi William Lewis,
Thanks for your reply. Glad to know the problem is resolved.
If you’re worried about this happening again in the future, you can buy a heated bed cable as a spare.
The heated bed cable is 4 USD,
The shipping cost is 14 USD,
The total is 18 USD.
If you accept, please pay for the items to the PayPal account, PayPal.Me
Then please kindly tell me the below info:
A screenshot of the transaction:
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In addition, you will also need to provide the following information:
Full name:
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Looking forward to your reply and thanks in advance.
Please feel free to contact us if there are further questions.
Have a nice day.
Best regards,
Alice
** According to the system settings, the email will be automatically closed after 10 days, Please feel free to reply to this email if the problem is not resolved while the ticket is closed. **
Yea. I use quick change beds.
I also leave on the heated bed for laser (double sided taped the laser panels to a spare magnetic build plate). Not doing much CNC, but would want a clamp/bracket to hold things down.
Anyone had to replace a thermistor on the bed yet? Wanting to find what it is as replacement beds are out of stock everywhere.
-Edit- After looking at digikey.com for a replacement thermistor with a suitable value resistance at standard room temperature (~110 KOhm) I found that a standard 120K NTC from TDK has a resistance of ~310k at 0celcius which is what I was experiencing, and causing an error in recognition by the controller. It is 0.2celcius here today, so I tried using a hot-water bottle to warm the bed, and after ten minutes it booted and said 24celcius, and then I was able to tell the bed heater to turn on (30c first then 60). No replacement needed, just doesn’t like cold weather.