Ha, I noticed that too.
You’re referencing this?
Nice connector, $16/connector nice. Ha. I’ll keep looking for something like that with a bit lower cost.
Yes, that’s the style. That’s a right-angle through-hole male, which is what you might use on the bed.
As for cost, when I said “not particularly expensive” I did not mean “particularly inexpensive”. These are a relatively low-volume product and so aren’t priced at a dollar or two like commodity connectors. One the other hand, they seem to be about the lowest-priced mixed-signal connector in the market at present. If you find something better, please share it.
An alternative would be to use a power-gauge connector with all large pins and just run CAN on oversized pins. These are like PC power connectors or automotive wiring connectors. The problem is that they all seem to be snap-lock connectors, and they’re not really meant for high connect-disconnect cycles. The advantage of D-sub is that they’ve got tightening screws built-in in the standard, so that you don’t have to wrestle a locking tab every time you remove it.
Another alternative would be to use a D-sub 15, which are quite inexpensive, and simply use multiple pins for power transmission. This would make cables harder to make, so it’s not a free tradeoff.
That’s what I was planning - those connectors seem to be in the $0.50/body. Although in the case of the heated bed it’s a thermistor and not CAN so no chance of parasitic capacitance affecting comms.
I’ll find something, I’m trying to improve over my old ways to just sticking a grommet on a box and running wires through.
For the other plug in devices I’m making I bought spare cables and will just cut them in half and lengthen the cables via splicing. Will probably put some sort of JST-esque wire-to-board connector on the project box so there’s a connector at both ends.
If you want to go overboard, have a look at the Wago, Winsta series? 4Pin, 25A, 400V (Wago Nr. 770-254)
But i havent found it on Mouser or digikey 
We are using them at work.
Depending on Weight, the mixed DB connectors sound like an option, not cheap though as mentioned.
Didnt check on Circular (M23) connecors or what harting/ Phoenix contact does have.
In amateur radio we use Anderson Powerpole connectors everywhere. Symmetric, reversible, cheap, high power, what’s not to like.
I just had a quick search to see if they do PCB mounted ones, but my phone search fu is borked, I’ll check later with a real screen.
Failing that, I’ve seen designs where a piece of solid wire is soldered to the board with an Anderson connector on the other end.
I’m not sure if this fits a standard APP connector, but it handles 75 Amp 
APP system:
https://www.andersonpower.com/us/en/resources/PowerPoleResourcesPage.html
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I am looking at Harting Han Series, guessing Han A 004 or Han 005 ES would be great:
My heat bed wasn’t getting to temp and I realized the cord in the back had snapped from the heat bed shifting enough with prints. I only had the printer for the last 2-3 weeks, do we know how to get replacement parts? (Part of the wire is snapped in the actual heat bed so I think I need to replace both…)
In this case only support@snapmaker.com is the way to go 
Or if you good in soldering, repair it for youself (You do it on your own risk of course)
After seeing this Thread resurface after a while ive checked on my Heatbed to see if i have the same Problem building up.
For whatever godly reason, the Cable outer insulation ends exactly where the Plastic part ends. So the three strainrelief bumps are only strainliefing the Conductors, not the whole cable.
With a bit spare time ive cobbeld together a Extension for the cable. Tolate for you but maybe someone will be able to add it before the cable breaks completly.
The surface finish is questionable at best, i had to exactoknive the Nut indents but i think it should work.
Screws ive used for the white part:
3x12 coutersunk Universal screws (self taping)
Files:
SN2_Heatedbed_Strainrelief_Cover.stl (27.0 KB)
SN2_Heatedbed_Strainrelief_Mainbody.stl (33.8 KB)
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I just found these on thingiverse: they may help prevent the issues. I havent tried any yet although the cable chain looks most promising to me.
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I had to solder my cable today since it had worn through after about 3 weeks of use. I’ve lost 10-15mm on the cable by doing this which only makes the situation worse! Thanks for the model links.
me too, exact same situation. 3 weeks of cool printing and then heatbed stopped getting up to temp after a 3 day PETG high temp print. My cord looks fine though and I do not want to take it off and look as I am sure that will disqualify warranty. Unfortunately, they are all on CNY and there is no support right now!
I am considering getting another printer from a different supplier until this gets fixed by SM team.
The first one insn’t compabible with the housing…
I´m thinking about this and looking for a solution like Menanchrom posted.
I’ve been scouring thingiverse nonstop, a lot of designs claim to prevent strain but only moves the flex point instead of solving it. Then I found something that might work, I haven’t tried it yet but I’ll post the link, let’s get some thoughts on it.
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I actually printed this last night and going to install it later Today before I print anything else. I recommend that this enclosure be everyone’s first print.
I have had absolutely no strain on my cable at all, it just naturally rides elevated up and out of the way.
But, I did print something out to install for the heck of it. havent gotten to it yet.
I noticed the same problem today and successfully destroyed the PCB on the heated bed (probably to hot). So I am relying on the Support to get me a spare part (I never got a reply in past cases).
Matthias
funy though, mine are quite thick, I’ll post a photo later. I managed do snap the cable and I’m having quite some issues soldering it back.
I had the same problem with the cable. After reading this this on the forum I mailed support. A few hours later I got a reply from them asking me to confirm my address. Next day I got a mail that they had Fedex-ed a new cable. Within a week a package arrived with two new cables!
Super service from Snapmaker!!!
I’m also affected by this problem, and my heated bed essentially doesn’t work anymore. The cable is cut open with tiny wires sticking out of it. I got in touch with support, but I’m still waiting to hear back…