Snapmaker 2.0 a350 enclosure

Pretty disappointed with this enclosure. And especially being as expensive as it is… VERY unhappy.

It’s laser proof! Great! That’s the main reason I got it! Now to the rest of it…

The LEDs are SO weak. Even looking inside the enclosure with the door open, you can barely see anything.

The acrylic panels on on sliding/folding doors have these foam layers around the border to help “seal” around the door to the frame. They are all slightly curved outward in the middle, so the foam doesn’t even touch. I know you don’t necessarily want an enclosure to be “sealed”, but it was a wasted effort here.

The coiled cord for the touchscreen is pulled so tight on the port it plugs into. To remedy this I have pulled the cord towards the controller and “hung” it on the old touchscreen mount.

When dust can be a huge enemy for 3D printing, it would have been wise to wrap the acrylic in static proof… anything. I left all the plastic protective covers on until I HAD to take them off to continue building, take the outside ones off at the end, and the walls inside and out are covered in dust from static.

The slides for the door are terrible, and it’s annoying to have to put my hand inside to push outward on the folding door to get it to fold and open.

No filament guide, just an oversized hole with a hard plastic insert, and having to mount the filament holder on the outside, outside of the enclosures footprint makes you either need an even bigger table, or to pull your table away from the wall.

NO BOTTOM! Which mean you MUST have a table to hold this almost 30"x36" enclosure. This was a HUGE pain. I have TWO A350’s, and I have had 2 enclosures for about 2 weeks. I JUST set up one of them, because I was finally able to find a big enough table for the one at work.

I updated my firmware before plugging the enclosure into the controller. Downloaded the firmware from their site, put it on a flash drive, then plugged it into the SM. Went to files like I would if I was about to print something, and just tapped the firmware file. Instantly start updating. Fast and easy!

Once it was done, I turned the machine off, plugged the enclosure into the controller, then turned it back on. The touchscreen then told me my “enclosure module firmware” was out of date. Nothing on the site about it. Enclosure fully functions except I can’t turn on “Door detection”. As soon as I click “save” in luban, it reverts back to “off”.

Most of the wires were sized perfectly to run hidden from one thing to another. So that and the wire holders were a very nice touch.

(Cough still waiting for an answer about my support ticket for my melted heated bed wire. Melted a few mm away from the bed itself. Too close to bend and touch the bed anywhere.)

Random thought:
I would have liked to see the filament mounted on the top, and go straight down into the tool head.

There is a bug regarding the interior light brightness. It should be fixed in the next release

All acrylic does this when you first pull off the plastic. Clean it with window cleaner and it will be greatly reduced.

You don’t have to mount it outside. Can just lower the bracket a few holes and it will fit inside.

For some reason for each tool head, rotary module, stop module you have to run firmware update repeatedly. Annoying. (one of quite a few reasons I haven’t bothered to update)

Wouldn’t quite say ‘proof’. Reducing or limiting. Adequate probably, but definitely not certified. A little more reading if you’re interested: Best options for eye protection? - #60 by Andomaster


That’s what I did. Popped a hole right above the center of the X rail, and ran PTFE tubing up from the head to my dryer just outside the case. MUCH better. No hard jerks on the filament at the right side of X travel.

Sorry for the inconvenience. As I wrote in this article,.

Issue report:

  • Pheromone:

The power of the enclosure LED and the fan will drop after you update the firmware. The lights are dimmer and the fan is slower.

  • Cause:

Firmware developer switched the value range of the power from [0,100] to [0,255], while they forgot to change the default value to 255.

  • Solution

This bug will be fixed in the next version of firmware, which is about to be released next week.

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There is a hole and a bushing through which you can insert the filament.

As for the filament guide, we do not provide it in the package. You can buy it in Amazon stroes.
AMX3d PTFE Teflon Bowden Tube for 1.75 Filament (2.0mm ID/4.0mm OD) – White Connector Tubing for 3D Printer - 1.5 Meters

I think you have updated the firmware to V1.12.0. As I wrote in this article, you need to upgrade the firmware with three tool-heads one by one.
[ Upgrade the Toolheads Separately with Snapmaker Firmware V1.12.0

Best regards

Thank you so much for the responses! I guess I just needed to take a hard look at everything. In my defense, when I posted that, it had been a loooooong day hahaha.

Thanks again everyone!

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@fastcompjason has posted the commands to control the LED and fan of the enclosure and you can refer to it.

As I commented there, you can learn those commands in our GitHub repository.

Please let me know if you need any other help from us.

Agreed, I’m working on a design for a bracket mount that attaches to the back rails of the enclosure that then over hangs onto and is flush with the top of the enclosure, the mounting method will be holes that match up with the enclosure screw holes so longer screws are all that will be required. The brackets purpose will be to hold a filament dryer like the PrintDry but will also make variations for single spool dryers like the Sunlu. Will drill a hole in the top of the enclosure panel for the filament to come down in from the top.

There are some options on

I attached the links with the images.



Yeah I saw those, but there isn’t one to hold a filament dryer for keeping the filament dry while also printing, that’s what I’m working on.

The hole and bushing add significant drag, and can cause noticeable effects on print quality. An easy improvement is to use a piece of PTFU tube in the bushing to reduce the drag

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@Edwin you might want to fix the link spelling (should be as it could confuse new users.

Sorry for the typo. I have corrected it just now.

Thank you for your reminder.

Best regards

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