Snapmaker 2.0 350, print mat stickers?


My original 350 heated bed print plate (sticker) , peeled up from my original unit. The flip side of the original plate would not hold product in place after about 1 cm of pla height. I purchased two more, 350 , print plates to use in rotation. So I can deal with each drama as I can and still print.

On a side, of 2 separate print plates. The sticker has peeled up. Both were after product was finished and the, pop off, did little rips up. I’ve had to remove both of these 350 print sticker squares. They are clean but I’m reluctant to use the flip side.

Are there 350 print stickers ? I’ve seen the 250’s. I want to full cover the print plate before putting it near the heat bed.


Pei sticker? To replace a torn one and you can just slap on the spring steel plate? I’ve never seen them specifically for Snapmaker, but there’s these. Cut to fit.

3 Pack 16"x16" (400mmx400mm) Square 3D Printing Build Surface Heat Bed with Adhesive for 3D Printers, Cuttable to Any Size

Also, get to the bottom of what’s ruining your stickers. What are your settings? Temps? What brand filament and what kind? Etc.

So far everything is the default bed temp. Usually its 70.The PLA from the first brand was the Snapmaker (black). I picked up 2 BLK and 2 WHT when i did my a350 and enclosure order. The first sticker plate issue came out of the little tugboat test. I’ve been slowly working projects around. Off-center from these damaged spots.

It took a while to get the sticky glue off the plate. It’s why I ordered those other 2. those arrived before i was able to get the rest of the goop off the damaged Snapmaker bed surface. Since I’ve been having these issues. I’ve used the one at work to compare drama. At work we use aftermarket PLA from … [D3D Sigma PLA 1.75mm 1kg Various Colors - Silver] is what we use and i bough the same stuff for home. seems ot be ok now, just leaves ghost outlines and the first pass, ring around product seems somewhat bonded.

Yeah… Snapmaker’s filament doesn’t have a good reputation.

If you’re printing too close you can have problems with excessive adhesion problems.

Or petg really likes to stick so it’s highly recommended to use glue stick.

Leaving some ‘ghosting’ isn’t really a problem and is normal.
For some stuff I’ll use a razor blade laid really flat to the bed to scrape stuff off. (sometimes with bed heated to 70-80)
Otherwise if you re-print the first few layers again the old stuff will usually stick to the new.

I mostly do cnc and laser, but after a year I’m still using the back side of my original sheet. I have the extra one I bought with my backer kit still sitting in the box. I pretty much just use glue stick for everything even though I probably don’t need it for PLA now that everything is dialed in. Just a little extra margin of error.


The best thing for removing the glue from the original sticker / steel plate is mineral turpentine (turps). It works much better than either acetone or isopropyl alcohol (IPA).

You need to make sure you remove the mineral turps after with IPA or Acetone as Turps is oily and the others are not, or soap and water to degrease would also work.