Hi,
Can you alter a layer from a skin to an outer layer when the G code is processed or is this done in another programme.The picture shows yellow where I would like it to be red(Outer layer).
Running on luban, designed on FreeCAD, checked with Meshmixer.
Any help would be great, not a deal breaker It’s just I’d like to see it as a finished surface as opposed to a skin.
The difference between skin and outer wall is one of orientation. Outer wall are surfaces perpendicular to the bulidplate. Skins are surfaces parallel to the buildplate. There is a difference in texture, because the outer walls are threads deposited over time vertically as the print head moves up, and the skin is deposited all at once at the same Z height. The outer wall will have bumpy texture in the Z axis. The skin should be mostly smooth, assuming you’re properly calibrated.
If you really want the whole thing to be outer wall, you could try rotating the part 90º around the X axis, so it lays on it’s side. The part would need supports then, possibly everywhere, not just touching buildplate. You might still end up with a bit of skin on the gear looking bit though. You could try rotating ~15º around the Y axis so that the gear “teeth” are no longer parallel to the build plate.
Thanks for the reply, all makes sense now, as you say a difference in texture.
Essentially my finish is 99% perfect apart from a few slight nozzle marks which I’ll tune up.
As you say different orientation may cause more issues so I’m more than happy now you have explained.Much appreciated
There can be good reasons for various orientations. Parts have good compression along the Z axis, but very poor shear in the X/Y plane. Some of the alternate infills attempt to improve that, but there’s really not much that can be done about the X/Y shear.
So I’ve printed some parts in less than ideal orientations because I needed the compression strength in that particular direction, and just cleaned up the support material as best I could. Depending on what you’re using this for, shear along the layer lines could be a problem. Like if that was meant to be a hinge pin in something larger.
Yes, I get your point.I’ve been making various models with the compression strength applicable to use.
The print I have done is to simplfy the movement of my router fence.I add a 8mm threaded bar through the Knob and 2 part epoxy in place.Previously I made a 6.5mm hole and tapped 8mm but the epoxy just made it easier with added strength.