I managed to change the nozzle after a whole lot of stress. First of all I replaced the existing brass one with a steel one and found that the outside diameter was not 6mm like the brass one but 7mm (which you don’t find in spanner sizes). In the process while gripping the heat block with a pliers I also tore the side of the silicon sock. Now I have inserted it all back somehow and after tightening I found that the nozzle is lower down than the sensor, so I suppose I need to move the sensor down so the nozzle won’t hit the bed. It probably would have been easier to change it while cold and replace the whole hot end instead of messing about with the thing suspended and hot. But thanks anyway. Now need to see how to adjust the sensor…
It’s the screw on the back. Something not mentioned in the article is the sensor has a lot of surface contact with the surrounding plastic so it’s probably jammed tight and won’t move very easily.
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Thanks again brent113. Actually I did not need to adjust it as it is meant to be higher than the nozzle. I have just recalibrated and so far all seems well. I shall now print a Benchy and see how that goes (coupled with my external cooling fan)…
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As long as when you jog near the bed the red light comes on then you’re good to go. If the light doesn’t come on then the sensor is too far away and next time you run auto calibration you’ll chowder the print surface.
I’ve tried it two times now to change the nozzle to this: https://fibtip.com/ bit I always get the plastic oozing out on the side of the nozzle…why? I tightened it very good!
Nozzle needs to be tightened agains the heat break tube and not the body itself.
The seal is where the nozzle and heat break meet. Make sure heat break is all the way tightened down. Then tighten down the nozzle.
-S
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Yeah I tighten the heatbreak as much as possible with my fingers, and than screw in the nozzle against it…with a wrench…right? I don’t get it to seal…
Just to be crystal clear on terminology
If you are correctly torqueing the nozzle against the heat break (about 25 inch-lbs, 3Nm) and it’s still leaking then something is wrong with the hardware.
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Yes I think I do it like described…the standard hotend works perfect…its just stringing a lot…this is why I want to use an anti stick nozzle…but this one doesn’t seem to seal propperly…I just wanted to make sure that I’m not doing anything wrong…I will test with another brand
The “most proper” way of installing the nozzle (outside of the snapmaker sphere) is hot with the hot end at around 280 degrees and then tighten until snug.
It’s possible the nozzle you’ve ended up with requires that. Did it come with any guidance? Perhaps there’s something unique about their composition.
Their FAQ section on their website says you don’t have to worry about damaging it from overtightening to break out the cheater bar and crank on it 
E3D’s nozzle changing instructions for reference:
Of course due to the construction of Snapmaker’s toolhead this is close to impossible to do without some clever rigging. Also the latest hardware revisions have removed the flats from the heat break making it difficult to torque against.
sadly this is not mentioned…the nozzle is already completely clogged with plastic…again! It makes amazing results when printing properly, but I think it’s not worth the price-tag…it was my second test as support provided me a second nozzle for free, but I don’t get it to work…had to free it with a fire torch, and don’t feel confident in using it again…
torqueing in hot seems impossible to me with the design of the hotend (no hold), without damaging the printhead, or really burn yourself ;-( How do you do it?
I haven’t, but what I’ve heard of some people doing is something like:
- remove hot end from tool head
- set hot end on silicone trivet
- ramp up temperature carefully
- try not to burn yourself and hold with some sort of pliers through a rag or something
It’s a poor process and I wouldn’t recommend it personally. Maybe someone has a better process.
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Okay thanks =) I will meanwhile try a different nozzle =)
Any time I’ve changed the nozzle, I’ve clamped the block in a vise and tightened the new nozzle as much as possible (with a proper fitting wrench). You have to to tighten it A LOT, otherwise risk leakage. I’ve only every changed the nozzle on new/unused ones. I keep a selection of hotends with various size nozzles around. It’s a lot easier to change the hotend than the nozzle on a as-needed basis.
I’ve also changed twice using a vice and nozzle pipe wrench (came with nozzle kit), and then inserted back into machine or at least plugged in then heated to 250C for 5-30mins and then came back and tried to tighten while in the machine, once it went a bit tighter and the other time it didn’t (overtightened initially).
I’ve managed to change one nozzle on a nozzle replacement unit with just spanner and pliers, but getting it tight enough was a pain compared to the vice and nozzle socket wrench. I did it cold, printed with it fine, then got worried and heated it and attempted to tighten a little bit, not sure if it moved, but no leaks either way.