Hey creators:)
I’m new here and I’ve just finished my first print with the Snapmaker A350. My problem or question is now, how to remove the skirtline from the heatbead. I can’t get it off…
The print itself went really well.
Thanks for your help!
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Check out this thread:
Cleaning bed tricks
Thanks for your answer at first 
I’ll try Isopropanol then. How can I disable the skirt in Luban? It seems I’m not allowed to. Do I have to make my own profile?
Thank you
I wouldn’t recommend disabling the skirt, entirely, you may get the first couple inches of extrusion in the first layer missing. Skirts help with priming the nozzle and making sure the flow is even before starting the important print. Other slicers can do a multi-layer skirt (2 layers high) that helps with removing it (Simplify3D is one of them). If the skirt is excessively difficult to remove, right when the print starts try raising the z-height 0.05mm from the touchscreen. You could even lower is back to to 0.00mm when the skirt is finished.
If you still want to disable it, here’s how:
Flip over to Customize, hit the + button to duplicate it, then change Skirt Line Count to 0
Just change it to 3. Then it does 3 skirt passes.
Makes it a little thicker so its easier to get off and still get the benefits of it priming and being able to see that it’s flowing properly.
-S
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Also, if you run the same print again with a 3 or more skirt pass, it will stick to the old skirt you’re trying to get off and help you remove it. (stop it after skirt passes)
You didn’t indicate you were having problems removing print, if you were raise your z-offset .05
-S
Thanks @sdj544,
that’s a good hint
I know this isn’t popular opinion, but I hate skirts, I never use them. I will use a brim occasionally but generally I observe the first layer of the actual print and restart the print if I have major adhesion issues.
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That’s a hot take I’m not sure I can support haha. JK <3
How do you ensure the nozzle is primed? I’ve had issues.
The main issue is the priming most slicers generate automatically is done immediately after homing, and then as it travels down some inevitably drops out of the nozzle.
I’m aware priming lines are a thing but I’ve never used one.
Usually the first 4" of the skirt will be missing for me, but I know I and intentionally under priming to minimize dripping, intending on the skirt being the prime.
Have you not had these issues? Or do you have a different solution to them?
I have my slicer set up to prime while the nozzle is to the front left of the print bed. So it homes, heats, lowers to bed hight and front left, extrudes, then moves to starting position.
Would you mind sharing that gcode, please?
so i am posting what i currently use, and it works ok, that said i use the printed line priming on my E3 and i like it better. i just have been to lazy to change my SM2 to that style of priming and my SM2 is currently non functioning anyway so i have not had a lot of motivation.
this is my current start code in cura please note that i should have added backlash comp. to this;
G28 ;home
G90 ;absolute positioning
G1 X-10 Y-10 F3000
G1 Z0 F1800
G92 E0
G1 E20 F200
G92 E0
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Either way you’re wasting filament and there isn’t really a way around it. So I’d just as soon use a skirt and be able to see what it’s doing before it even starts the first layer.
Figure out what works best for you and go with it. The more you keep consistent to your method, the more success you’ll have when you do need to adjust things.
-S
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agreed, i am weird, but the real key with 3d printing is consistency as @sdj544 said. you need to do everything the exact same every time to get good results. and if you have problems only change one thing at a time till it is resolved. otherwise you will be pulling your hair out because you will have some prints that work perfect and others that end up looking like the flying spaghetti monster.
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