What do you pay for the boro glass in 353x365 at your location?
I had a quote for $60 from a local glass supplier at the measurements of 13-1/8" x 14-3/8" with sanded edges and rounded corners. 1/8" thick
he also gave me a price for $9.00 for the regular glass, i asked them to go ahead and make both
mcmaster-carr quoted it at $140.00 so i did not buy it from them
however, mcmaster car had a thin magnetic sheet with adhesive on one side, so i ordered some of that to attach the glass to the heated bed magnetically
the heated bed will likely degrade the magnetism over time. they have a magnetic sheet that offers higher temperature resistance, but not in a large enough size.
I got this one https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezflex-magnetic-base/
Supposed to be good to 140C
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Oh thats nice, they also have some nice print sheets it looks like.
@stefix you still have the FiFix on thingyverse? Really interested in seeing what it is! I have bed leveling issues and want to use a glass bed so just doing some research on how to do it with the inductive sensor
What was your tests like with borosilicate glass as a print bed vs normal glass in the end?
Good question. I have not really used the regular glass very much at all. They are not the same, but either case is an upgrade from default. The heat distribution on the borosilicate is better, but by no means is it something I would consider particularly dominant.
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Thanks bud, I am looking at various options and am considering either a glass bed - be it borosilicate or not or perhaps PEI sheets as I have seen folks rant and rave about them too!
I have not used a pei sheet. I will say glass has its own challenges, but is at least nice and flat.
I am supposed to be receiving a prototype PEI coated glass bed but i dont know when that is coming.
Where are you getting the prototype from? Do you think a pei sheet will make auto leveling an option?
Curious, how to you level with glass? Will the auto level feature work?
Thanks.
The current probe does not detect glass just metal. The auto leveling is fine just the the detection that doesnt work. Some people use a FiFix and this does work but I wanted a more permanent solution so I replaced the existing induction sensor with an Infrared one.
Eventually wrote up what I did.
Question? Just started printing on glass and I’m noticing that my corners are coming up, any ideas? I’m printing PLA at 200/60. Same settings on the on the original bed work fine.
There are a some methods you can try.
- Increase the heated bed temperature
- Use an enclosure
- Use 3D printing tape and glue
- Set a “raft” in slicer
Edwin
I’m using the enclosure, I’ll try to bump up the temp on the bed.
It’s interesting to hear about your solution for addressing bed deformation by adding a glass sheet. It’s great that you were able to repurpose old picture frames for this purpose. I’ve been using the same print surface and have experimented with various methods to secure it. While the magnets do hold it down to some extent, I found that adding a few pieces of tape helps provide better stability. I’m also eagerly awaiting a new metal PEI covered print surface, which I hope will provide a more reliable solution in the long run. I share your sentiment about avoiding binder clips and the hassle of using Kapton tape. Thanks for sharing your experience and insights!