Carborundum Coated Glass Bed?

Hi! I’m new here, just got my a350t. I’m wondering if a carborundum coated glass bed would allow the auto bed leveling functions of the Snapmaker to continue to function with a glass bed? (sorry if I’m showing how little I know with this question)

If no, does anyone know of the best way to enable the use of a glass bed that allows for a fool-proof bed leveling experience? I’m wanting as close to a stock experience as possible, and do not want the possibility of the print head crashing into the glass.

I’m willing to get as technical as I need to to make it happen, but but I’d like it to be as stock-like as possible in the end, and ongoing. Something that requires repeated set up overtime per print or on every bed level will not be ideal for me.

Well, the dumbest way of doing it is to put the stock bed with the spring steel in it on top of the glass. That gets you a much more level surface that the Snapmaker can still sense.

Agreed, sounds dumb. Haha I’m more interested in it for the ease of print removal and great contact finishes. Increased level-ness is also nice, but that feature isn’t worth buying a glass build plate all on it’s own for me. Any idea what the least dumb way of doing it is?

I understand that I might not get exactly what I’m asking for here, but I’m hopeful. I want easy print removal while still being able to auto-level the bed, if possible.

Okay, the other options are:

  1. put something metallic of uniform thickness on the probe points when you’re levelling, then adjust the final point to take the thickness of the whatever into account. The ambitious version would be to cover one side of the glass with a thin metallic layer, level on that side, then flip it to print (if I ever go glass, I’m going to see if the aluminum tape they make for sealing ducts, which is not the same as duct tape, will trip the sensor for this purpose).

  2. The FiFix, a solution developed by a forum member who is sadly no longer with us. It’s basically an external attachment that puts a thin piece of sheet metal (or plastic covered with foil or copper tape) on a spring between the sensor and the bed. You level with that in place, and when the head approaches the bed, the FiFix provides the metal surface for it to sense. Then you remove the paddle to print. So it’s sort of like an automated version of the first solution. Look at the long thread about levelling on glass for more information on this.

  3. Replace the sensor with something more appropriate to your purpose. This is a complex mod and probably more work than you want to do, although a couple of people have succeeded with it.

1 Like

Wow. Thanks for the list of solutions. I really appreciate it. I saw the FiFix solution earlier, but unfortunately the model for it is no longer on Thingiverse.

I think I’m going to explore #3 if it ends up being feasible for me to do, and if not, I’ll go with the aluminum tape option.

Thanks again!

Keep in mind that I haven’t ever tested the aluminum tape. You might need to move up to copper tape (sold for fine electrical connections, lining guitars, and as a slug deterrent—it’s narrower and more expensive than the aluminum). Regardless, you can test it by holding a single thickness under the sensor and seeing if the light goes off.

I also have the files for the FiFix (or at least I have a “FiFix±” file lying around), if you want them.

That’d be great if you can send the file over or upload it somewhere and post the link here. (not sure what’s appropriate, seeing as the object was deleted from Thingiverse, I assume the original creator abandoned it)

Upload files for free - - (picked a random file host—if the link doesn’t work for you, tell me and I can try another).

I can’t remember whether the file was originally withdrawn because Stefix’s Thingiverse account was closed after his death or because he was working on an updated version that he never got to finish, but either way, there’s nothing wrong with it that I know of.

I was thinking of putting the glass bed on then the snapmaker print sheet on top of that then calibrating it. After calibrated switch the plates and see if that works.

Ok, Ive had problems with the auto levelling and have a solution.

The auto levelling probe needs to be really really close to the metal magnetic clip on plate for the A350
I had a problem that when I replaced the filament nozzle it extended out a mm or so more than previous. the auto leveller - then proceeded to crash and gouge the nozzle into the bed at one corner. becuase it coulnt sense teh metal build plate under the nozzle

The way that I solved the problem , was to place a tiny ( 1cm diameter , 3mm thick ) Neodymium magnet under the corner, and under the whole diecast bed. The magnet was able to project a weak magnetic filed into the immediate surrounding air just above and through teh metal base plate.

The proximity detector - could see this and was able to auto level correctly , No more gouging of the build plate .