Glass bed for Snapmaker

For those interested. This is how I added a glass bed.

  1. Bought a 128x128 mm 4.7 mm glass sheet

  2. Design and printed a spacer for between the z-axis and the x-axis (find attached STL)
    _z_mount.stl (26.8 KB)

  3. Designed and printed (using carbon filament ) clips for holding the glass (find attached STL)
    clip-8mm_v2.stl (8.5 KB)

  4. Moved the x-axis axis (arm that holds the print head) up one hole using the spacer and washers to secure the top part of the x-axis (see pictures)

  5. Home axis - I checked that there is enough space to place the glass on the bed - the print head module should not touch the glass

  6. Placed the glass on heated bed - secure with clips

  7. Calibrated the bed carefully - as to much pressure on glass will certainly break / shatter it

The clips works for now but need to find a better way to hold the glass in place


You can probably use a binder clip to hold the glass in place. A medium one would work with the thickness, just take off the arms once you’ve clipped the glass to the bed.

Thanks for your sharing.

I’m curious how does the glass bed perform compare to the original sheet?
The one shown in the picture looks good, but have you tried any taller and bigger stuff?

Adhesion to the original bed has slowly deteriorated, so much so that i only got good prints when using blue tape. (Printing with carbon fiber directly on the bed did not help) The blue tape stick so well to the original bed that it was always an issue getting the printed part of the bed - main reason i started looking at adding the glass bed.

Certainly just printing on glass without glue-stick or blue tape is difficult - the original bed is much better. However using blue tape on the glass works well and its much easier to remove the printed part.

I ordered some PrintaFix and will test this on the glass.

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Sounds nice. I had the same issue with the original bed, but I ended up with a pei sheet.

Just a warning when you use a binder clip or anything that clamps to the heat plate. I ruined my heat plate with a binder clip when it scored the bottom of the heat plate and the copper heat elements were compromised.


Thanks for sharing your experience. This is very useful information for everyone. I guess it’s not a good idea to use binder clips.

i also print 4mm glass, but i built the Z-axis with M5 nuts = 4mm higher. I coat the glass with wood glue (1:3 water) and each print holds super. Whether PLA with 40°C bed temperature or ABS with 80°C, no matter. I fix the glass with double-sided adhesive tape on the aluminium plate.
the perfect solution for me.


two questions?? how thick a piece of glass can or should I use and what size? can I go over the size of the original plate or do I need to stay with that size? 5 1/2 inches is just a little over all the way around?? how about the thickness?? and as all of you have noted do I glue it to the bed or tape it to the bed? how do I get the heat right??? Please help me out

did we need to adjust the height that much on the table that we needed to bring down the head or up with placing the screws that way??? couldn’t leave placement in original position?

Yes you need to move the z-axis up the same distance as the glass thickness.
I added a base plate to the z-axis. Have a look at snapmaker base plate on tthingiverse


Yes you should not go over the size of the original plate - as the nozzle should still clear the bed when it goes to the home position
I would not use glue to stick the glass to the bed - use some clips or tape.

finally starting with 3d printing again and wanna finish that glass bed option out first… This Z axis plate is printing now and hopefully it’s strong enough with normal PLA ? Maybe I’ll dublicate this plate in aluminium… by neighbour has a small workshop in his backyard and maybe he wants to make a stronger version of this Z-plate :smiley:

From all that I have read I was sure I was going to need glass or some other material for bed adhesion. But I’ve had no issues with the Snapmaker bed sticker. No “lack of adhesion” issues at all. If anything, larger prints can be difficult to get to break loose. I tore up the first one when I changed nozzles and forgot to re-calibrate. It pulled right up. Took about 5 minutes to get the remaining glue up and put on the supplied extra one. I bought 3 packs more of them. Because of the price I thought they came 1 to a pack. Nope, they come 3 to a pack so I have 9 spares. I’ve gone through about 1.5 spools of filament on the current bed sticker and I will probably get a couple more spools out of it.