You can probably use a binder clip to hold the glass in place. A medium one would work with the thickness, just take off the arms once youāve clipped the glass to the bed.
Iām curious how does the glass bed perform compare to the original sheet?
The one shown in the picture looks good, but have you tried any taller and bigger stuff?
Adhesion to the original bed has slowly deteriorated, so much so that i only got good prints when using blue tape. (Printing with carbon fiber directly on the bed did not help) The blue tape stick so well to the original bed that it was always an issue getting the printed part of the bed - main reason i started looking at adding the glass bed.
Certainly just printing on glass without glue-stick or blue tape is difficult - the original bed is much better. However using blue tape on the glass works well and its much easier to remove the printed part.
I ordered some PrintaFix and will test this on the glass.
Just a warning when you use a binder clip or anything that clamps to the heat plate. I ruined my heat plate with a binder clip when it scored the bottom of the heat plate and the copper heat elements were compromised.
i also print 4mm glass, but i built the Z-axis with M5 nuts = 4mm higher. I coat the glass with wood glue (1:3 water) and each print holds super. Whether PLA with 40Ā°C bed temperature or ABS with 80Ā°C, no matter. I fix the glass with double-sided adhesive tape on the aluminium plate.
the perfect solution for me.
two questions?? how thick a piece of glass can or should I use and what size? can I go over the size of the original plate or do I need to stay with that size? 5 1/2 inches is just a little over all the way around?? how about the thickness?? and as all of you have noted do I glue it to the bed or tape it to the bed? how do I get the heat right??? Please help me out
did we need to adjust the height that much on the table that we needed to bring down the head or up with placing the screws that way??? couldnāt leave placement in original position?
Yes you need to move the z-axis up the same distance as the glass thickness.
I added a base plate to the z-axis. Have a look at snapmaker base plate on tthingiverse
Yes you should not go over the size of the original plate - as the nozzle should still clear the bed when it goes to the home position
I would not use glue to stick the glass to the bed - use some clips or tape.
finally starting with 3d printing again and wanna finish that glass bed option out firstā¦ This Z axis plate is printing now and hopefully itās strong enough with normal PLA ? Maybe Iāll dublicate this plate in aluminiumā¦ by neighbour has a small workshop in his backyard and maybe he wants to make a stronger version of this Z-plate
From all that I have read I was sure I was going to need glass or some other material for bed adhesion. But Iāve had no issues with the Snapmaker bed sticker. No ālack of adhesionā issues at all. If anything, larger prints can be difficult to get to break loose. I tore up the first one when I changed nozzles and forgot to re-calibrate. It pulled right up. Took about 5 minutes to get the remaining glue up and put on the supplied extra one. I bought 3 packs more of them. Because of the price I thought they came 1 to a pack. Nope, they come 3 to a pack so I have 9 spares. Iāve gone through about 1.5 spools of filament on the current bed sticker and I will probably get a couple more spools out of it.
