Problem with stringing A150

Hi together,
i have Snapmaker 2.0 - A150 since a few weeks. But I have some problems getting good print results especially with stringing. All prints were made with the “normal quality” profile in luban with layerheight 0,16mm.

What I have done so far:

  1. Out of the Box my Extruder was under extruding, when extruding 100mm it only extruded 93mm of filament, so I adjusted the E Value (M92) need to change it from 212,21 steps/mm to 230 steps/mm.

  2. Adjusted the Retraction (Standard in Luban is 5mm) lowered this to 2mm, that improved the quality of the surfaces and made them smoother and reduced the stringing. But did not go away all of it.

  1. Printed a TempTower form 225°C to 180°C, results are not very helpful, stringing at all temperatures. Edges don’t look so good. Some kind of wrapping.

  1. Printed a Calibration Cube @210°C / Retraction 2mm



Do you have any additional ideas, what parameters should I adjust else?

I also played around with fan speed from 100% to 90% and with Retraction Speed raised to 80mm/s. But didn’t help.

Looking at your temptower, where did you get it from? Did you slice it yourself, or did you get the gcode from somewhere?
To me it looks like it was all just printed at the same temperature

Sliced it myself. Almost every 55 layer i changed the temp by 5 degree
TempTowerPLA180225_1641737422706.gcode (2.5 MB)

e.g.:
;LAYER:55
M104 S220

i saw it on the display of the printer that the temperature changed over the print.

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Ok, just checking :slight_smile:

Have you been able to try a different filament? I would suspect something is wrong with the filament.

currently i’m using the black one that came from snapmaker with the printer.

That was also my next guess too, yesterday I bought two filaments from amazon (a white one from geeetech and a red one from SUNLU) they will be shipped tomorrow so i can test that.

There have been quite some reports of other people having issues with the supplied filament as well. Personally it worked really well for me. I didn’t think it was still an issue.
That being said, even with other brands you can always get unlucky.

You could try drying the roll you have and see if that improves the situation. Hopefully the newly orderd rolls will work better.

Yes i finally got it working :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:

50% of the problem was the filament and 50% was the wrong settings


(left first try / right improved settings, see below)
(nevermind about the bending, i just deformed it while getting it of the build plate)

At the beginning I was disappointed by the first result of the white filament. The stringing got better but there were still a lot of branches. But I managed to improve the quality and the stringing as you can see. :slightly_smiling_face:

Raising the travel speed had the greatest effect on stringing.

The best results were made with the following settings:
Normal Quality Profile (Layer Height 0,16) modified:
Temperature: 200-205°C
Travelspeed (default 70 m/s) → raised to 175 mm/s
“Retract at Layer Change” Enabled
Retraction Distance lowered from 5 to 0,5 mm
Retraction Speed lowered from 60mm/s to 25 mm/s

I did a lot of testing… but it was worth

Printing white and black with the same settings (more stringing at the black one)

Next step was printing a benchy (same settings but layer height 0,2mm and increased print speed from fast profile) took 1h 50min to print. And i think the results are quite good. Absolutly no stringing. :hugs:

What do you think?
There are some minor defects at the hull of the ship and the bridging on the top of the door and window could be better. Maybe you have an idea what could have caused that or how it could be improved?

Thanks in advance.




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I firmly believe if a test print like Benchy has no flaws then the test isn’t hard enough. Benchy is a torture test, after all.

I think the steep overhangs and long bridges are challenging for this machine, and for any print that has those features you should consider enabling supports.

Typically those features can be improved by doing something to reduce sagging of the filament as it cools, like cooling it faster with higher fan speed if not already maxed out or supplemental cooling (desk fan works for me), or lowering the temperature, or something similar. But that will not come without tradeoffs. Filament can also play a big role in this.

Overall, I think it looks great.

I might recommend capping your travel speed at 150mm/s. Beyond that is uncharted waters - previously the machine was only “approved” up to 150mm/s beyond which it was known to occasionally lose steps which would cause a layer shift that ruins a print.

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Sure, overhangs are hardcore, but i try getting the best out of my machine. I found a nice article about overhangs here, so there are some tipps i can try: https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printing-overhang-how-to-master-overhangs-exceeding-45/

Blockquote I might recommend capping your travel speed at 150mm/s. Beyond that is uncharted waters - previously the machine was only “approved” up to 150mm/s beyond which it was known to occasionally lose steps which would cause a layer shift that ruins a print.

Thanks for the advice, will reduce it to 150mm/s, i don’t think that it will make much difference hopefully on the stringing. Will test again :slight_smile:

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