Printing with Wood PLA

Hello fellow users, I really need your help.

I’m trying to create a wolfs head using Wood PLA and not matter what I try. It just won’t stick to the board. I tried different temperature and flow settings. In desperation I’ve even tried using painters tape and even that doesn’t make any difference.

I really need your help.

Make sure you’ve calibrated e-steps so you’re not underextruding.

Usually adhesion is fixed by a couple things:

Playing with Z-offset - usually try a little less so it squishes more.

Slow down - at least for first couple layers.

Lower the bed temp.

Glue stick works really well (for petg especially). I prefer it over blue tape.

Be aware that wood filaments will wear out the brass nozzles. May need to switch to a hardened nozzle. Or just change often. Depends upon the filament. Also if not using brass may need to up the nozzle temp because they don’t conduct as well.


@sdj544 how do you know when your nozzle wears out and needs replacement, other then when printing fails and you are trying to troubleshoot the issue? Anything to look for before failure? (Apologies for sidetracking the topic but I’ve thinking about this and haven’t seen that addressed yet)

I bought some guages/cleaners of varying sizes from about 0.35 to 0.85 as i have 0.3 to 0.8mm nozzles. You just need a 0.40 and 0.45mm. Clean with the rated nozzle size and test with the next one up +0.05mm. Once the next size fits it’s time to replace. I don’t clean inside my nozzles generally, just occasionally unblock.

You can use the go/no go method with gauges as @tyeth suggests. Sometimes there will be old/hardened/burnt filament that will keep the .45 from feeding, even if the nozzle is worn. So it’s not always an accurate test.
A few other ways to tell:
A lot of the time if the filament ‘curls up’ when loading (doesn’t flow straight down) that can be a sign.
You can visually inspect and compare to a new nozzle. If it looks bigger or isn’t a circle and is elongated it’s worn (or defective in the first place).
If you’re doing multiple objects and there is a change in adhesion, first layer and/or outer finish quality.


Thanks @sdj544 and @tyeth!

Pleasure. I’d forgotten I didn’t buy a gauge set but a drill bit set…
As well as a nozzle set (hardened and other sizes which came with some cleaners) I decided to kill two birds with one stone and got mini drill bits to test the nozzle sizes and have for future use.

try extra hold hairspray works for me good luck

Or simply take a Rubin nozzle and you can print all materials without having to change the nozzle.
So I do it all my printers have ruby nozzles are a little more expensive in the purchase but you need a very long time not change and can easily print 2 years with it!

Yeah the ruby tempted me, do you not get sticking issues with some materials, that’s why I was going to go for the Nozzle X, the coating/hardness had a reasonable guarantee