Print propeller / bad support structure

Dear all,

I am having a hard time to print this propeller (18cm in diameter) on my A350 with PLA - using Fastprint.


I activated “Generate Auto Support” but the result is not really promising.

Does anyone have an idea how I can place the propeller during printing or provider support structure parameters to get proper results?
Thanks in advance …

Printing with support tends to do things like that. Some people say that slicing in Cura and using the options there for tree supports produces better results, but I’m not sure how well that will work with something of that shape. Or you can try to manually design supports into the model, arranged so that you can removed them cleanly with cutters. Basically, you want the supports in contact with as few points on the model as you can manage while still allowing it to print without sagging or turning into spaghetti.

(The other options are waiting for the dual-extruder module to come out, which may not happen for quite some time, or putting in a good chunk of time with some old-fashioned sandpaper, although that still won’t fix the minor edge damage.)

Pva would be the best option, but need to wait for dual extruder.

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Did you calibrate your machine well?

One to be said, if you want to do this really well, this could be a very looong project, this is not easy man.
Whats your overhang angles?- Is it possible to make the propeller steeper?

Did you try this with better quality too, than fast-print?

1- Start to print a overhang test to see what is possible.
2- Get some more part cooling capabilities.
3- Slice it with a other slicer like Cura, Prusa Slicer, S3d

Personally once I started using cura and tree supports I’ve had much better prints. Only very minimal support marring, and with support interface enabled I no longer get any infill being visible after separating supports. I also have an IDEX and printing with PVA is awesome. No support marring at all. Can’t wait until the dual extruder comes out.

For the propeller I don’t foresee being able to get a really good print of it without increasing the print time. I think tree supports with support interface is the way to go, but I could be wrong, I’ve never printed a propeller.

Is this propeller going to be a functional part that is required to be dimensionally perfect?

You probably need to make the top/bottom/wall layers thicker, print with supports, then sand it. It’s possible that Cura with it’s different support models (cylindrical maybe?) might do better than the Luban zig-zag. But I think that model is going to be a stretch for all supports.

The Propeller should be functional - the original one was printed too.

I guess I will give cura a try considering the feedback so far. I will report about the outcome.

AirHeart, I am working to print propellers also, and have am having trouble getting an acceptable print. I have had some moderate success, increasing the wall thickness, but am not getting clean edges.

On a separate note, I am struggling to build my propellers in SketchUp. What program do you use to build yours?

@hijackgmh what do your edges look like?

I am using fusion 360 with its loft function - its amazing how simple that is.

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The are so thin that they are single strands that don’t always adhere to the rest of the blade. I have had the best luck using supports, but that requires much more sanding afterwards.

Mike

I am using SketchUp and have had trouble putting in the twist of the blades. Is that what Loft does for you?

Mike

You owe it to yourself to check out Fusion360 (it’s free for hobbyists), the parametric modelling is far superior to sketchup.

With lofting you define 2d cross sections and loft extrudes them to 3d shapes. It is trivial to make a twisted wing using loft. In the below video for example, just rotate the cross sectional sketches and the loft will have a twist.

And because it’s all defined parametrically, if after you finish you decide you need to change the geometry you can just edit the sketch you made at the start and all of the solid geometry built off of it will automatically regenerate. For example, changing a 10 deg. twist to 15 deg - takes as much time as opening the sketch and rotating it.

thanks Brent, I’ll take a look at it. I had assumed you had to buy a subscription.

Mike

Just make sure you select the boxes certifying you are using it non-commercially:

It’s quite different than sketch up, so there’s a learning curve, but it’s worth it.

Their youtube channel has good videos on it, here’s one to get you started:

Only for a year now. It used to be free period, then they did what they normally do and made it free only for a year for hobbyist use. I’ve never liked Autodesk, insanely overpriced for what it is and they pull some shady $#!#. You also don’t get its full functionality or support either.

Not true. You can renew annually indefinitely

https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-renew-your-hobbyist-enthusiast-license-for-Fusion-360.html

There are many reasons to throw shade on Autodesk, including the removal of 4th axis and simulation from the free version. Annual renewals is not one of the reasons, however.

Hi,

Prusaslicer has pretty advanced options for support generation:
It can (like slic3r) generate automatic columns for certain overhang, but you can also manually enforce or forbid support at certain regions of your model. Without using multiple materials (1 dissolvable) you probably need to sand a bit at the end.
This is a 200x60 Prop model, with auto support from PrusaSlicer.

Best,
Martin