On the discussion of nozzles how long will a brass nozzle last and how can you tell if it needs changing?
My biggest hope for the hotend isn’t necessarily the nozzle size but rather an all metal heat break to achieve higher temperatures for more complex and abrasive filament which requires a hardened nozzle but since the heat conduction is not as good as brass it requires setting the temp higher but there’s limit to how high we can set it right now as the hotend for the SM doesn’t have an all metal heat break. I actually bought a few extra hotends to start experimenting with different all metal heat breaks and nozzle combinations following the current deep research done by @Franky on his post (thanks Franky!) but for some reason the heat break he linked that is on aliexpress can’t ship to my location here in the US. So I’ve been forced to find an alternative.
Hot end kit is consumable, and once you see it is deformed, you can try to replace a new one.
You can purchase the spare parts in our on our online store and our Amazon store:
Cheers
Edwin
I think @dcreitz was wanting a more in depth description on signs to look for when a nozzle is getting worn like lower print quality and bad layer adhesion because of nozzle diameter deformity.
Not all nozzle wear can be visually acknowledged. The biggest sign is in the print quality. Look for unpredictable and inconsistent layering not conducive to wet filament or too high temp. Also do an extrusion test. Have the machine extrude some filament when the nozzle is clean with no excess buildup of material on the tip from an instance of hitting a print for example. What you want to see when doing a test extrusion is a string of extruded filament that comes out straight, no bending, turning, curling or any other form of extrusion warping. If it bends, curls etc then you have a bad nozzle and need to replace the hotend (this is why it’s important to make sure the nozzle is clean).
Thanks for the info!
Time to change my nozzle! It does curl.
Hi,
I would like to get also 0.1mm in Luban. I printed already with the A350 and a nozzle of 0.1mm a badge in PLA to get a higher resolution. I used a slicer where I can adjust the nozzle diameter. I would be great to have this also in Luban
Best regards
Michael
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Out of curiosity: how big and how long did it take?
I’ve printed many things with a 0.2 nozzle with great results, but even tiny things take forever… Considering you were forced to half the layer height and extrusion width, there really isn’t much stuff coming out. Bed leveling must be really really spot on too I suppose?
What filament? Any challenges going that small?
Size of the badge is diameter 51,8mm and thickness 2,5mm printing time 3,5h
filament PLA. I used silicone to get the casting form of the badge. Then I casted it in wax. Next step is to get it in new silver (alpaka). The bed issue is not easy. I checked the bed by printing with a skirt in several locations of the bed until I get a proper location. Layer height was 0.08mm
Yes I would like to have a range of options. To be able to print larger items faster and also go for finer detail. More options is better
Has anything happened with this? Any update to the software to allow different nozzle sizes?
Use cura.
-S
This thread has nothing to do with hardened nozzles. It’s about smaller diameter.
That being said, it’s not really a big deal to up the temp 5-10º for a non-brass nozzle.
-S
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Cura has about a 50% failed print rate for me. It’s going to take me a long time to figure out the best settings.
