I know I can go into Luban and override the programmed nozzle diameter for a Dual Extrusion Module hot end, but is there any way to “reprogram” the hot end to report a different nozzle diameter than it shipped with? Luban suddenly keeps trying to reset the override I specified.
The hotend nozzle size is coded as a resistor on the hotend module. You can unsolder that resistor and replace it with one the matches your nozzle size. I am not aware of a comprehensive list of resitor values for the different sizes, but I guess with the united power of the community we could compile such a list. If you plan to regularly change the nozzle size, you might even consider to solder in a adjustable resistor.
Main caveat: It is a small SMD resistor - changing it requires a minimum of soldering skills.
Gibt es da jetzt inzwischen schon mal Werte oder muss man im Quellcode nachgucken
From the nozzles I own I can give the following values:
- standard 0.4 mm brass: 2.4 kOhm
- 0.2 mm brass: 3.3 kOhm
- 0.4 mm hardened: 330 Ohm
Can anyone add more?
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tysm for this, I soldered my own resistors in (330 for steel) and it works perfectly
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Is there really any point in doing this with the Snapmaker Orca slicer? Is it, or will it be, capable of using the autodetection?
Can add another value here, got my 0.8mm nozzle:
- standard 0.4 mm brass: 2.4 kOhm
- 0.2 mm brass: 3.3 kOhm
- 0.4 mm hardened: 330 Ohm
- 0.8 mm brass: 1.5 kOhm
Hi Hauke, Does the Snapmaker feed enough filament so the 0.8 hotend can be used properly and fast?
No first-hand experience yet. I honestly bought the hotend module as an “have it in case I need it”, and because I had a voucher sitting on my desk shouting: “Spend me!” and used the Easter sale to get the hotend module, with no specific plan to use it immediately.
That said, I’m not sure how much of a challenge it is after all to print 0.8mm - I’m aware of the supervulcano stuff etc., but I always wondered if or for what scenarios these are really needed, as I’ve seen people using 0.8 mm nozzles with standard hotends and feeders. I suppose there will be upper limits to speed and/or temperature (or combinations thereof). My gut feeling is that PLA temperatures at up to 100 mm/s should be no problem, but it is exactly that: a gut feeling from watching some videos. I could imagine that at some point you get slightly inconsistent extrusion, but to what degree and if it really matters needs experimenting.
I gues aside from trying, you could dig out the max feed rate the feeder can do (I remember vaguely to have seen this figure in some wiki), and calculate what the max. speed you would get from that. This will not cover the issue of keeping temperature up/consistent with high flow, which will become more of an issue the hotter you print. The hotend rated for 300°C, I suppose the ~200°C for PLA should have enough headroom.
EDIT: Shop page says flow rate is 20 mm³/s - 0.8 mm nozzle has an area of 0.5 mm² → Max print speed 40 mm/s! Huh, should have done the math before I bought the thingy! 
EDITEDIT: Think before you write… 40 mm/s is max feeding speed, not print speed.
EDITEDITEDIT: It is max print speed: you get 40 mm of 0.8mm diameter molten filament out → If you move faster, you’d strech that thin. Huh…
I feel I’m missing something - will read a bit around - forgive me my ramblings…
EDITEDITEDITEDIT: Of course, I miss layer height. If I print 0.4 mm layer height, the filament put on the plate would have 0.4 x 0.8 mm → Area of 0.32 mm² Would already be able to go at 60 mm/s. 0.3 mm layer height would be 80 mm/s. Interesting optimization problem: Where’s the sweet spot where you get the fastest prints?
I just ask because i have troubles with my 0.6 hotend in printing fast and for me it feels like feeding issues.
But i did Just few prints with that nozzle. I am not the biggest 3d printer here in Forum.
There’s a video by Thomas Sanladerer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=S_ILPuO9358 - it deals with high flow nozzles. TL;DR: It’s complicated 
Pushing filament fast through a thin hole is not only a matter of theoretical feed rate, but also feeding force required etc. - I guess in the end it is experimenting and establish the rates possible under realistic conditions.
What exactly where the points where you ran into trouble? Which speeds, layer heights and temperatures involved?
Oh, and btw.: Do you perchance can check which resistor is on your 0.6mm? It would make the list complete!
0.6 hotend has 820 Ohm.
Maybe I will do some Speed testings with 0.6 later on. Currently I have a big printing order which will last some weeks.
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The flow is limited by the heater, it can’t heat enough filament in short time.
My workaround was to print with higher temperature. Attention, at the higher end around 270-290°C you could easily run into thermal runaway error because of missing target temperature while printing too fast.
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You all made me curious like hell I’ll think of a test project! I need to know now first hand
In my experience, experimenting with up to 1.0mm nozzle, the bigger the nozzle the slower filament feed you need; it needs more time for the heat to penetrate to the centre of the filament. Turning up the temp is often an erroneously perceived solution, but, obviously, this will overheat the surface of the filament before the centre is at the correct temperature.
I do not understand that. Bigger nozzle should lay down more material. And more material output should need more material input to the hotend. And as the diameter keep 1.75, more input will just be possible with faster material flow, so higher feed rate?
I mean: the only benefit of bigger nozzle is faster printing? I lose details, but i am faster.
Am I missing something?
The print time over all could be faster (less shells, less infill percentage, greater possible layer height) but because of your limited flow maybe not your print speed.