I have a Snapmaker J1 since the end of April.
At the beginning I followed the recommendations of the forum and greased everything sufficiently.
When I replaced the original nozzles with Brozzl nozzles a few days ago, I noticed that the left extruder has a noticeable amount of play.
When I checked the left extruder, it turned out to have about 0.15mm play at the bottom end. See pictures.
You can feel it on the left side, but not on the right.
Can this be readjusted? Or do I have to replace the left-hand bearing? Or both directly.
Or swap directly for an MGW7 from Dold? MGW7 - breite AusfĂźhrung
Even after i got my new x axis i still have some play in it. 0.15mm dosent seem to be much.
Try a resonance test print or a 3d benchy and print it in copy mode. Check if the left print isnt as good as the right print.
For me it was around 0.5mm play before i switched the x axis.
Contact support if you see differences in quality. The support will respond quickly but you have to figure out yourself how to install replacement parts or find a manual here in the forum.
I also had the same problem and had to replace my x-rail too. From what I have read here on the forum, it seems to be a common problem with this printer. Itâs such a shame with the linnear rails and the poorly/greedily designed toolhead. It could have been the best printer on the market by far (at this price range), but now itâs just another ok printer from another untrustworthy manufacturer.
I disagree itâs âcommon problemâ. Youâre only hearing from the vocal angry minority that feels compelled to post their screed. My SM2 has been running almost non-stop for 3 years (14 hours a day) without any issue.
You know, that we are speaking about the J1 here?
I had to change the complete linear bearing of the X-axis after three months because of massive play on both extruders and have after two additional months a play in the left extruder again.
And YES, Iâm part of âthe vocal angry minority that feels compelled to post their screedâ because it is not normal to change the X-bearings every three months.
@StepLord would you share the ordering details of the Hiwin you bought? It most likely has a better quality than any linear guide variant Snapmaker has provided since they started offering the J1
@FlashErase Regarding play in the bearings: IMHO, Snapmaker overdid it a little with the accelerations, keeping in mind that the J1 print heads are rather heavy. If you replace the J1 fan with a decent cooling fan, you make the print head even heavier and therefore should reduce acceleration accordingly.
Apart from that, that lubrication manual Snapmaker stubbornly provides that tells you to put an unsuitable grease onto the rails instead of into the wagons where it belongs does not help either. The sealing lips on the sides of the wagons will do their job and push away anything that is on the outside of the wagons, including the grease - which means almost no new grease will reach the bearing balls inside the wagons, and old worn grease will not be expelled at all, as it should.
Since I have given up hope that Snapmaker will ever learn that by now after telling them this fact for over 1,5 years, I strongly suggest anyone who wants to keep his J1 running should follow the lubrication manuals of a decent linear bearing manufacturer such as Bosch insteadâŚ
@Mechanikus
Of course I didnât use the pointless instructions from Snapmaker but the ones here from the forum. I used the lubricant GLS 135/N2 and injected it directly into the sliding blocks using the appropriate needles.
What maximum acceleration do you recommend as a slicer setting?
Good question⌠I admit I never cared about what the maximum possible speed is since my focus is very much on mechanical stability - it is well known that FDM parts get more brittle if you print them very fast. And it has literally been decades since I had to do such a calculation for the last time.
What I can give you however is the following: after an intensive run-in period where I literally had to regrease the linear slides every two or three prints (!) since they started running less smoothly, my printer runs perfectly fine so far with the original black linear slides using the following values:
Firmware settings (Caution! These are taken from Reprapfirmware - it is up to you to translate them back to Marlin settings!):
M201 X1000 U1000 Y1000 (max. acceleration in mm/s²)
M204 P900 T900 (max. combined acceleration in mm/s²)
M566 X342 U342 Y342 (max. jerk in mm/min)
Prusaslicer settings:
max accelerations for X and Y 1000mm/s²
max acceleration for extruding / retracting / travel : 900 mm/s²
max jerk for X and Y 5.7 mm/s
max speed for X and Y 350mm/s - but: the max speed I actually print with is 200mm/s.
Constraints of the above:
First, you need to acknowledge that (unless the Marlin version Snapmaker uses has a bug there) a single acceleration vector in a two-axis system (X and Y) can physically never be larger than the combined total acceleration vector defined in M204. This means that the 10000 mm/s² acceleration values Snapmaker define in their M201 setting and state on their website is nonsense anyway since the combined acceleration defined in their firmware is just 1000mm/s²⌠or was at least when I threw out the Marlin controller of the J1 to get a decent web interface and full native support for open slicers.
Thus, any acceleration setting in the slicer above 1000 should be limited to 1000mm/s² already today.
Second, any possible max acceleration values highly depend on your print head - its weight and centre of mass, the lever arm the printing nozzle has, the forces it creates when rumbling over a blob of a printed material (which again depends on the material, the print speed and the shape of the nozzle you use) and such.
Third, I have no clue if the mentioned run-in has any effect by cold-hardening the linear rails or the roller ballsâŚ
For comparison: my J1 print heads still have the heavy twin 5015 part cooling fans since I did not find the time to replace those with the better variants that exist by now. On the other hand, I have the self-made hotend upgrade i3sven, MrBean and me had cooked out, which reduces the lever arm of the nozzle and therefore lateral forces when printing. And I have set Prusaslicer to avoid crossing curled perimeters which minimises rumbling into material blobs.
Thanks for sharing the rail types.
But the customer registration on hiwin.de is a pain in the ass and afterwards there is currently neither a quote request nor an order possible,
@Mechanikus
Canât understand your reply. Regarding to StepLords post I tried to get at least a quote for the parts. But without success.
Try to klick âRequest a quoteâ or âProceed to checkoutâ in this basket . Itâs not possible although I was logged in as registered customer.
Sorry, I fear I donât understand what your problem is, apart maybe from not reading all the postsâŚ?
I was talking about the link to Dold in the first post of this thread who resells Hiwin parts. As I noted, Hiwin does not sell to people who do not have a business in Germany, therefore I do not have a login for their website. And this also means that without said login, the buttons in your basket certainly wonât workâŚ
No idea, what was going wrong before but opening the basket just now I was able to see the price and would be able to check out (I registered on hwin as private user without a business).
But the price of over 350⏠after VAT for two sliders and one rail seems me a bit too expensive.
Additionaly I was completely confused about the terms & conditions linked at the last checkout step.
May be that Iâm too stupid to understand that joke as Gernan but I should better try to order these parts from Dold instead from Hiwin.
Thanks for the link to aliexpress. There are the parts 11⏠cheaper than from Dold.
I make roundabout 50 orders a year there but never got the idea to look for such special parts there.
