Hi All,
I Just started to use my new Artisan with dual extruder module, I updated firmware, calibrated bed & extruders with the wizard. All good with first PLA prints. including a nice first layer sheet.
Now I tried to use my SUNLU PETG with Snapmaker Orca, printed calibration temp tower (and seems to be good with 205 °C), then tried pressure advance and flow calibration.
The problem is that print is affected by warping! (including the flow calibration..)
I’m printing a 2x4 100% infill item, tried in every way to keep it attached to the bed, but nothing works.
I tried to print from 200 from 240 degree, from 65 to 80 bed temp, different speed.
Also tried to reduce zoffset (near to have bed scraped…) but this not improved, only messed up the first layer and machine auto calibration (I tried to manually fix sensor calibration…).
Print seems to have a good first layer, I cannot see lines, only the pattern of the PEI plate, but after 10-15 Layer warping on a corner. always.
I was lucky only using brim & hair spray toghether.
I’m very surprised that a PEI plate (first time I use it) give more problems then my old Ender 3 Glass bed!
Anyone had same problem? or have suggestion for SUNLU PETG Parameters / Profile in Snapmaker Orca?
many thanks
Sandro
I’ve not used Orca slicer, nor do I have an artisan. However, PETG is my primary filament so I have a bit of experience. I’ve never had issues on powder coated PEI sheets, though I’m not certain if it’s sticker or powdercoat on the artisan.
First off; print temps. PETG does like it hot, I normally run all my PETG at 240 (250 on an 0.6 nozzle with THICK layers). Bed; 85 for my first layer, 90 for the rest of the layers. If there’s a setting for volumetric rate, keep it around 11-12 cubic mm/sec. Fan? If doing functional prints that require good adhesion, ~30% fan. If you do need a good surface finish/overhangs, up to 50% fan. Stringing and nastiness can generally happen if the PETG is wet. Get a filament dryer or food dehydrator and run it 6-12 hours to ensure it’s good and dry.
For your particular problem with adhesion; redial in your Z height perfectly. Then, get a plain, unscented dish soap, such as simple blue dawn. Give your heatbed a good scrub in hot water with it, dry with a fresh paper towel, then do not touch the surface. On every printer I have with a PEI surface, this has gotten me perfect (if not a touch annoying too much) adhesion. Including 3x A350s with powdercoat PEI spring steel, two prusa machines, and a Sovol SV06.
Overall, PETG loves to stick to PEI, usually it sticks too well so I would def say give the bed a good cleaning and try again. 
EDIT: For anyone coming across this thread, I would suggest even if you have a brand new machine. Clean the bed first to remove any residues from the manufacturing process.
Many thanks for your kind replay,
Yes all reasonable suggstions, and I succesfully adopted the same on my old Ender 3 with same PETG filament with glass bed.
On snapmaker anyway I think the problem Is z offset & temp.
I tried to calibrate It, but lowered too much. in sapmaker orca the z offset field Is not available (while it Is in the standard version) so I’m now looking where current z offset value can be read and adjuated from machine control box, but cannot find It. Seems that only a fresh calibration Is possibile and this Is not good for tuning specific nozzle z offset for a specific filament.
Where i can find the Offset adjustment, without doing the z offset calibration procedure?