I am trying to get a good result while printing PETG. So far I dont get satisfying results, perhaps somebody can share PETG profiles for S3D/Cura as a starting point.
Be careful. PETG sticks extremely aggressively to the bed on the SM 2.0 (and probably the original as well, though I never tested it). One side of my build plate looks like the surface of the moon trying to get settings that work well with PETG. Start out very conservatively with your settings.
Make sure you use glue stick, and make sure the nozzle isn’t too tight to the bed on your first layer. Printing at .15 layer height, When calibrating, I make sure the nozzle is touching the paper firmly, but that the paper slides in both directions (forward and back, unlike PLA where it should jam going forward, but pull back smoothly) and I calibrate before every print. I’m working on an S3D profile for petg on the SM 2.0 A350, and I think I just about have it knocked… I’m really close. If you use S3D, I can share my findings with you.
Would you please investigate what would be the more efficient way as with big prints, these speeds won’t add up. You need to have speeds to which, for example, Prusa can yield with their devices. It does not serve any purpose to have a huge print on A350 almost full build plate with large complexity and these speeds, as that causes also error marginal hugely.
Please investigate more speedy print settings for this. You should almost go 4x print speed from these values you have here.
With PLA, I’ve gone to almost 100mm/sec speeds with good results. But what about PETG?
The manufacturer of my PETG filament recommends printing speeds of 40…60 mm/s.
I print at 50 mm/s without any problems.
I only print with PETG since more than 2 years (SM1, SM2, Ultimaker 3). A few of my hints for successful prints with this great material:
- calibrate the extruder (underextrusion was the main reason for my adhesion problems of the first layer)
- calibrate Z-height to 0,15 mm (with a feeler gauge)
- bed temperature of 70 °C is enough
- of course you have to reflect your material but mine prints best at 220…225°C
- remove prints while the print bed is hot
- don’t go too slow for 1st layer (proper calibrated 15…25 mm/s is no problem)
- don’t use any adhesion agent (just a mess) - there is no need for
- for the fine hairs that sometimes occur use a blow torch at low temperature (then you can rub the rest away without residues
I concur with everything roja says… if you get the calibration spot-on. But, I still suggest using gluestick when you are starting with it – just as insurance. PETG sticks hard to the build surface, and imho, it just isn’t worth the risk. I do not always use it anymore, but when I have doubts I do. It costs almost nothing, and is cheaper than a new build surface.
You must not calibrate too low. Only then PETG sticks as hell.
Remove the print while the print bed is at temperature (of course 70°C is hot, but you can handle it).
Remove the print sheet and bend it back and forth (so it is not only bent to one side) 1-2 times then rotate by 90° and do it again.
The print should pop off the build plate withou residues.
If 70 is too hot for your hands, wear gloves.
I always use glue stick. Why take the chance? It’s cheap and easy and takes a minute more - including washing off the print. One application lasts for at least 5 prints.
How fast can you go ont he first layer (wall speed and solid infill)?
I’m interested in a little competition
I also use the glue-stick when printing PETG not for extra adhesion but more as it helps also with removing the print from the build plate.
Hi Can you share your S3D profile for PETG?
Here you go:
Snapmaker A250.fff (11.3 KB)
I am a newbie on this guys but would like to try PETG filament… how do I install the profiles?
Hi Edwin, will be good to hear from you mate!
@Edwin @rojaljelly : This is really conflicting to see video from SnapMaker printing at 45mm/s where the proposed configuration doesn’t fit (30 mm/s)
Luban permits to import json file, where the community proposed .fff S3D file.
Why is luban not coming with PETG preconfigurations? Why is the video not coming with matching configuration proposition links to download for SnapMaker 2.0?
From my experience, the 8% infill creates really brittle 3d prints. I’m getting a bit lost into printing anything else then PLA with the provided filament, where PETG is more then necessary for any serious prints.
Can you provide base configurations just like for PLA? Fast, Normal, High quality? Inside Luban, or at least here so that user can test filaments+configurations and report back prior of deploying them as defaults inside of Luban?
Truth be told mate,
If you are deciding that you have experienced enough to say you need petg because mechanically it has different properties that will be more durable…
Might want to try to graduate to Cura or Prusaslicer before too long.
While you might find some settings that will print petg, luban is not really going to cut it if you are trying to get to the next level to change to petg. even next level PLA is way better than anything luban is going to shit out.
This is of no help as the Lubin is locked and I can’t add different filament types on my SM A350, cost a lot of money and no straight answer give by Snapmaker!