I need to replace my hotend due to a nearly, but not quite, catastrophic blob.
I have one that came with machine.
And one that came from B&H.
They have VERY different construction - the one with the flange sits so low on the head that i have to lower the sensor to the maximum depth it will allow to make it 1mm diff to the nozzle.
Is this normal?
the one with the flange and taller nozzle (on the right) is the one that came with the machine and original head.
the one on the right is one of two i got from B&H and looks like the destroyed one i took out of the v2 headâŠ
I can confirm that the original 3D Print Module and the new 3D Print Module use different hot end assemblies, specifically the heat break. When I spoke with Snapmaker back in October, they told me that they are different and MAY not be compatible with one another, which is why I ordered extra new ones with the upgraded modules. They do have different part numbers for each, so youâll need to look at the details of the part when ordering from their store. B&H may not be aware of the differences, and may only sell the new version.
The new heat break appears to match standards set by other companies, including BIQU/BigTreeTech who makes an all metal version of it. All this being said, that is probably why Snapmaker Support stated that it MAY not be compatible, as the sensor probably needs to be adjusted if you cross use them on modules that they were not intended for. They did slightly change the heated block as well, but I donât know what affects (if any) those changes will have.
thanks, i just opened my original head, you are totally right (as normal)
the one with the flange is for v1 head and one without for v2
seems i ordered the v2 when i ordered from B&H - now i look at description on packaging of hot end it says v2.5
When the slightly changed hotend started to show up, according to SM, it was supposed to work on all versions of the print head. I had both the original ones that shipped with Kickstarter and then the new ones and both worked fine. So is this now another version? (Iâll have to look when I get home and see what mine are labeled)
Are the version numbers reflecting the SM 2.0 for the v2 and v2.5 for the revised?
Or is there now a third version, and the original would be v1, revised v2 and this new third version v2.5 and this one is the one thatâs ending up incompatible?
Or did SM start to find that there were differences in some of the original heads that caused this new version not to work on some and now theyâve changed what theyâre saying. Very confusing.
Anytime I swap the hotend I always check the sensor adjustment. I know some people were having problems where they just werenât getting the new hotend to seat as deeply as it should and just needed to use a little extra effort and also make sure there werenât any filament fragments interfering.
-S
I have both of those. (hotends, not print heads)
They both work in the old print head for me. I always do check the height of the bed level sensor when swapping hotends.
But I donât see any version numbers on the hotends?
its on the little plastic ziploc they come in - on the barcode (i only have ziploc for the v2.5 ones that came from b&h).
good question, no idea
From what I understand, this is the case.
This is where their use of MAY comes in. It should work on both the original 3D Printer Module, and the new one. However, you may need to adjust the sensor on the original 3D Printer Module in order to use it. The original hotend assembly (v2.0) most likely will not work on the new 3D Printer Module, but I have not tested this.
Ah, you mean those things you throw away after opening 
For some reason I actually still had these laying around. The original one didnât have anything on it apart from the printed text âHot End Kitâ
The new one did have a barcode sticker (two actually):
but I just thought that the 2.0 meant for Snapmaker 2.0 (vs original). Donât know if these stickers where original or came from the reseller I purchased it from.
(I use different hot-ends for different nozzle sizes, easier to switch a hotend kit than a nozzle)
SKU barcode on back was same as @brvdboss - so who knows WTF is going on, lol.
My ânewâ one. (v2.0 apparently) looks exactly the same as yours based on the picture except that it doesnât have the piece of tape/shrink tube around the wires. Maybe that piece of tape to hold the wires together is what explains the extra â.5â?
i have had good success with PLA in heating the nozzle to about 250 and then using bounty paper towel to wipe it off (any cooler and you risk the bounty sticking to sticky PLA instead) lol.
I good tool to have for cleaning nozzles, is a soft brass brush with a non-plastic handle. Similar to a suede brush, but designed for use on metals. You can brush off the gunk anytime that the nozzle is hot.
I know how to clean it, donât worry 
. (I use the brass toothbrush indeed). Just didnât need to yet and other priorities first.
