I’m coming from an Elegoo Neptune 3 that I converted from Merlin to Klipper and I had to spend some time dialing in the nozzle height so that it was calibrated properly when doing bed leveling. Once I got it dialed in perfectly the thing was flawless if not a bit slow.
At the moment, the quality of my first layer and some prints with different filaments I would say is a hair off from what I got on the Neptune. Is there any fine tuning with the U1 needed or even possible to perfect the calibration of the nozzle head to the bed?
I’ve never had a Bambu or printer even like this with some of the automation so maybe that is all thrown away with the way this works. It isn’t clear to me EXACTLY how it calibrates nozzle height but I have a general idea but it is it perfect without some manual intervention?
Nozzle-height calibration gives better line-width control and more accurate prints (e.g., the gap between two adjacent extrusion lines) and also provides a reference for later auto-bed-leveling.
I understand that. What I’m asking is there any manual fine tuning that can be done to perfect the height. On my old printer, getting this right was essential and I’m wondering both IF you can do some manual fine tuning to get it as close to dead on as possible AND HOW does the U1 Calibrate nozzle height? Is it some strain relief gauge on the nozzle or another sensor? Maybe it was mentioned in the kick starter docs somewhere but I couldn’t find it.
We still keep the mechanical (manual-assisted) bed-leveling option—follow this workflow when needed. Auto-leveling is purely software compensation on top of that mechanical baseline; you can choose whether to run it each time you send a print.