SM 2.0 Hotend temperature sensor

so I just wanted to change the nozzle to a new Zodiac CRB one and removed the hotend.
Not even done with gently pulling out the cables, the temperatur sensor gets lose.
Is the temp sensor just pushed into the little hole, or should it be glued or some other way fixed there?
Just curious, as I have a bad feeling for when the temp sensor slips out during printing and the printer reads wrong temp values, and trying to heat up.

Is this a case for snapmaker support to get a replacement?

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The hotend ships with the temperature sensor pushed into that hole with no adhesive, and yes it can be easily pulled out. Some people add thermal paste to help keep it in place, but that isn’t standard.


I ordered a couple hotend replacements from the SM store (they’re only $7). On most of them, the thermistor just popped right out of I pulled, so I’m assuming no adhesive was present.

The hot end does not have any adhesive, you must add it. I have four hot ends, two of the old style and two of the new style and on all of them the thermistor wire is too short and must be bent at a weird angle for it to stay in the hole. I added silicon adhesive to make sure it stays.

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As you can see in the pictures below, the thermistor is shorter than the heating tube wires and you can put it in the hole when it is bent.


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I ordered 5 more hot ends, since I’ve gotten two burnt ends. They’re a mere $8 US and they arrived very soon.

There’s an odd difference, however. The plug on the new ones are backwards. Notice the hot end with the green filament, which I recently replaced. That’s an older original. While the newer one is nicely taped to keep everything together, the plug is pointing the wrong way. I had to force fit. Is that right? Also the new feed tube has no flanges. Was there a deliberate switch for some reason?

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I just compared 2 hot end kits, and the difference is obvious. Though they are different, the new hot end kit can be assembled easily.

We recommend users insert the cable before assemble the hot end kit.


The difference is the connector is upside down and there’s no flange on the heat break? Looks the same to me otherwise.

Was the flange not serving as depth alignment when inserting the hotend, ensuring they are set to the same depth? I wonder why it was removed.

Cheaper to manufacture, because it can be cut from rod stock of smaller diameter, and there’s no milling operation to cut the flats.

It’s also a step backwards in quality design, because now there’s no way to tighten the nozzle against the heat break without applying a torque to the heater body. The old, superior style allowed you to take two wrenches, one on the nozzle and one on the heat break, and tighten them against each other. Now you can only apply torque to the heater body, and you can’t as easily use a wrench because there’s a mushy silicone layer in the way.

It’s completely false economy for a less-than-$10 part. Expect more people to get spiral leaks through the heat block because the nozzle isn’t properly torqued down.

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Then again, it’s a less-than-$10 part.

That doesn’t tell the correct timeline.

I bought two extra hot ends with the kickstarter. Out of those I’ve gotten two ‘burnt ends’, leaving me with one good hot end.

So I purchased five new hot ends. I’ve used one of the new ones and so far, it’s working ok, though I had to replace the nozzle after four prints. Is that normal?

I have plenty of spare nozzles, and so have a good stockpile.