My Snapmaker Modifications (Enclosure and More)

So I have had my Snapmaker1.0 for a couple of months now and having read a lot of the forum and printing sample parts I have found that I needed some enhancements to my system to make it perform better. Some were from Thingiverse, and the rest are my design using Fusion360 and my Snapmaker… Enjoy the pictures and if you have any questions or want the STL’s give me a PM.

Using the Snapmaker Enclosure I left the base plate out so I can quickly lift the unit off to access the printer. Have a large Fan unit attached to back and then a whole lot more… Filament drying cabinet dry’s the filament to 28% relative humidity removing moisture. Less sizzle in the nozzle…

INTERIOR LIGHTING: Standard LED Lights from Lowes: Black&Decker LEDUC9-3WK
LED Panels fit perfectly inside attached to the corner sections shown below. The included connectors connect them and then have the controller/power supply external. Purchased 2 sets to also have 1 LED upright to illuminate under the Printing Head. 3 LED’s on the top looking down and one on the right side by the door hinges. All cables tuck into the corners slots. Very clean and off the shelf.

2020 Aluminum Channel attached to the back top cross piece allows additional pieces to be attached at 45 deg angles for attachments.
Rear beam has the Snapmaker Spool Holder using standard 2020 T-Nuts allowing you to slide the spool up/down the beam and also across left/right to align its output into the enclosure. Spool resting on bearing supports off Thingiverse.
Front beam has my design screen holder with thumbscrew to allow the screen to be adjusted up/down and left/right.
Working on another attachment for the right side of the front beam to hold tools.

Using 2020 Aluminum Channel I constructed a custom top mount for the Z-Axis with locking screw to adjust the cross beam left/right to align the Roller Guide to the spool inlet hole and the Roller Guide attached to the right side can be adjusted up/down. Roller guide has a tube clamp to hold the enclosure tube firmly. This make an extremely smooth filament guide system with very little friction. It’s so free that when the printing head goes back up the filament will actually go back out the back of the enclosure. I have the plastic enclosure tube bent upward outside between the spool outer rims so the filament will not unspool and get caught outside of the spool. I have had ZERO tangles. Using 2mm dia “U” Channel bearings to trap 1.75mm filament keeps it locked in while rolling freely. Printing Head can move all over and the downward angle keeps it moving freely.

Found a supplier on Amazon that has special aluminum honeycomb support plates for laser cutting to protect the bottom plate. 4.9" x 4.9" x 1/4" thick with 1/4" Aluminum “U” Channel around the outer edge.
Can still use screws to lock down items thru honeycomb holes.



Pretty cool! I haven’t really had much moisture problems here where I live (Idaho). I mainly stick with pla or pla+. What requires your huge dry box? It’s bigger than the 3d printer enclosure!

I have over 20 rolls of material and Ohio has frequent rain and humidity. Home can swing over 45% during summer. Winter is not a problem. The box has a digital control so I can dial in the humidity level that I want and temperature. Also the box will be dwarfed when my 350 comes in.

Did you build the filament enclosure, or did you build it?

Purchased it on Amazon. It’s a photographers dry box for lenses and cameras.

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Where did you find the aluminum Honeycomb? Also what is the attachment to the printhead?

Honeycomb came from amazon. There is a vendor on there that sells it to any size you want.

Aluminum Honeycomb Grid Core, 1/8" Cell, 4.9"x4.9"x.250"

Attachment on head is a Thingiverse part that diverts the air flow towards the nozzle. 2 versions PLA directs towards nozzle and the ABS directs it away.


Excellent stuff mate - thanks a million for the links. Again fantastic setup

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Hi cool modifications. Is your Enclosure LED power separate wire or you use electricity through Snapmaker Power supply somehow?

It’s a separate wire using standard 110vac plug.

I am interested in doing something similar but reversing the filament arm over the enclosure and then adding a hole leading directly down into the enclosure. I am interested in going over the enclosure rather than behind it do to space between the unit and the wall. Any thoughts / concerns on my idea?

Should work fine. Nice thing about the 2020 stuff is you can move and change it. Just mount the first piece on the top back and you can mount it your way no problem

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Where did you get the mounting arm for the controller?

It’s my design and I’ve attached it to this post. Enjoy. You will need 2020 extrusion and some T-Nuts and a knob which I got at Lowes.

Snapmaker-Screen_Mount_v4.stl (434.8 KB)

Thanks so much for sharing!