My new Snapmaker 2.0 A351 😁

Hi Makers, may I introduce - A351

Some Pics:


Nice updates - will you share the links to the cable management racks, the spool roller, and any information on how you extended the wiring would be great.

I’m assuming that the extra cooling on the print head is due to printing higher temperature filaments…

Do you find the extra support helps out on the “rock and roll” of the Z axis?

Best Regards

Sure, but not at the moment, its 4:00h in the morning here and i hear my bed is calling me!
Pehaps later this day


holy shit dude


you crazy son of a bitch!

you even did the linear module stabilizers!

what is the story on the white thing on top of the 3dp module where the cable plugs in

Would you please give us a short documentary what you did there? :smiley:

Great modifications! :vulcan_salute: :vulcan_salute:

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When you have the time for the writeup, looking forward to it. Especially if you can identify some of the more noteworthy mods and link to them (or write them up individually they are custom). Particularly if you can note WHY (the intended outcome) you did each mod, if it seems to help with that (and any other unintended outcomes) and maybe a follow-up sometime in the future to let us know “in the long term was each worth it”. I know it is asking a lot, but all that could prove hugely useful for current and future users and even snapmaker themselves when they make changes (or offer options).

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Please provide the specs/links for the linear rail supports… Cool idea!

looksl ike you might have used something like this

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Those are some nice mods!

Been definitely thinking about doing the rail supports on mine for cnc.
But I’ve been too busy and still considering getting or building a real cnc machine.
This is what I’d been thinking about getting:

And then printing something to attach between the blocks and the carriage.



Oh boi that is looking awesome :star_struck:

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OK so, here is what I did to my Snapmaker:

I startet with a piece of countertop (800x560x40mm) and screwd an aluminum plate (800x500x8mm) ontop. I used alu with 500mm cause it was a little cheaper. The two stripes to the left and right (30mm) i filled with 8mm plywood. Then build the linerarmodules X-Y-Z on it as it were on the stock groundplate. (The wooden plate has bigger holes and the aluminum plate has the threds) The next step was to mount the base for the y-linearrails consisting of 2 aluminum pieces (750x50x25mm) next to the y-linearmodules.
After that I put the linerarrails (750x20x20)upon it, a a very critical step because they must be paralell to the Y-modules and for sure to itself. I was able to do it with a small deviation of 0,04mm over the length after dealing with it for two days. Hereafter it was time to mount the Workplate (aluminum same dimenson as the heatet bed 6mm thick) with the 4 caddys from the rails (before I drilled the holes and threds for mounting the heatet bed). On this workplate I put a sheet of siliconfoil and in the end the heated bed itself. Round the workplate I screwd 8 aluminum L-profile pieces to hold the 4mm glassbed in x and in y, in z it is only resting on the bed. Then I printed the 4 holders for the propups witch I made out of aluprofile (40x40x I think 350?) and put them together with the Z-modules.
After this was done i put my eyes on the top of the Z-modules and printet two holders to connect and adjust them (the Z-axis) in X direction to be paralell. (also aluprofile 40x40). While I did that I have the idea to mount two analog probes to it, so I can see at evey homeing if my Z-modules were align.
Next the cablechains are purchased (tried to print them but they came out very lousy) and mounted to Z-Y and X. For each axis I designed holders. The holder for the x-chain on the printhead is around the plug, and has a little knob to push and release the plug from the printhead.
BTW: it protects me from plugging it in in the wrong direction. The cable for the printhead was cut into two pieces to make it longer. Same for the heated bed.
The controler went away from its original position to the left propup. At the moment it is mounted with cablestrips but there will be a better solution soon.
Above in the enclosure I set two 20W LED spotlights one in the rear middle on the cablebox an one in the front. On the left side of the front, is my octopi camera. Another is between the Z-axis looking straight down. Outside the enclosure in the left corner you can see my “air cleaner”.
It has a 120x120 24V vent in it and a carcole smellfilter at the outlet. At least I made a strut from side to side to make the topcover more stable (alu 20x10).
Till yet it works as intended - its much stiffer now all over the hole machine and the y-axis moves like a charm no bumping or anything like that. The weigt of the hole machine is now about 70kg.
At the moment I design a case for my octopie with a relaycard to control my lights and my fan in the “air cleaner” and messuring the chamber and linerarmodul temeratures with 6 1wire DS18D20.
Excuse me if I missed something here and if there are questions then you can ask me.
Of course any comments are welcome, preferably positive but also critical.
If you have ideas what I can do beyond the above, let me know.
For the makers; I will share the hole Fusion file the next days.
Also i will post my expiriences with and more technical data from my “new” SM here from time to time,



what is this white part for?



Hope this answers you question.


I found out its better set the rails on something and mount the worktable direct to the railbearing.

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That looks like a tank, love it.
I’d like to do the chain mod but not keen on cutting the cables.


Is continued in this topic

What purpose does the y rails and the second touchscreen have?

The rails give the table much more stability and much better flatness. Thev screen is where I control octoprint and my SM2 its called octodash and with it I dont need a computer to manage the printer.

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Based on that great idea I am trying to replicate the linear rail setup.

I ordered these linear rails that fit perfectly lengthwise in the enclosure: (800mm length).

The height between the bottom of the rail and the Snapmaker base is 3/4"+3/16" (I used some magnetic shims - still figuring out how to install this more permanently) and due to some clearance issue on the Snapmaker bed used a small washer to fill the gap between the outer most screw hole in the linear rail slide.

The holes on the linear rail are tapped M5-0.8. I used long M4 screws to “catch” the hole. Seems to work no problem…

Still need to figure out how to attach the linear rail. Maybe some angle brackets side ways on the front and back 80-20 enclosure frame and supports along the rail…

@stefix Vielen Dank für die geniale Idee…

I vote this the best upgrade idea 2021!